Mr. Harkness, contemplating giving it up altogethe...
Description
Climb the prominent arete to the right of Brewer's Crack. All the business is at the bottom and then it mellows out to hard .11 climbing (at least that's what it looks like!) This is an open project so if you are a D-Town hardman get on it, take pics and let us know if you send!
The crux is pulling to the second bolt without falling and hitting the ledge. The first bolt just keeps you from cartwheeling down into the woods!
Location
The prominent arete at Brewer's Park that can be seen from the road.
I broke the jug on the right side of the arete just below the third bolt today. I also broke part of the hold on the left side at the same spot and a key foot chip (for me atleast) in the crux section. I doubt it makes the route any harder but clipping the third bolt is slightly harder.
I am coming home November 24thish and I have some unfinished business @ sawmill is this thing worth checking out? do you need a rope? could I boulder it? what else here is cool? are de'r projects?
Are you talking about this specific route? If you are... I've only been on it once for about 20 minutes. You most definitely need a rope for this one. Bouldering this would just be absurd from my point of view... Foxx Canyon has lots to offer though for bouldering...
I think this climb is amazing. It's like all the good hard parts of a route condensed into 30 feet of burliness. If you want to boulder it, I would recommend you have it sufficiently dialed on TR. Watching "Committed" several times, taking a hit of coke, and slipping on some Depends beforehand is also recommended. I brought a pad and placed it so it sat just over the edge, held on by a .75 cam with a long piece of webbing a little ways up, just to protect the crux on lead. If anyone wants to shovel off all the dirt on the ledge, that would be much appreciated. I was planning on skipping the 2nd bolt if the crux was to be had. The climbing at the 3rd bolt on has big intense core reaches. Don't screw up clipping the 4th, though I fell a couple times at/above it and was fine. Careful, this climb will get in your head. Climbing this is like trying to play two different songs on the piano at the same time with each hand.
You guys crack me up, I am nowhere near strong enough to send this. I spent all summer projecting it and never got close to sending on lead. I will be focusing my attention to the face to the left of this next summer, at least that has holds.