Reefer Madness 

FA:  James Loveridge New Route:  Yes Type:  Sport, Mixed Consensus:  M7+ [details] Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Season:  Winter Mixed / Fall Drytooling Views: 91 page views Submitted By: James Loveridge on Jan 28, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Reefer Madness - View from a little ways back (Feb...

Location 

About 30 feet left of Big Blue is a broken left facing corner that leads to a section of groove/seams. In average years there should be a dagger up top to finish on. In dryer seasons you should be able to see the anchors on the left side of a block that juts out from the top.

Description 

Start at the base of a broken Left facing corner. Climb up steepening corner on chossy jugs to gain stance on a loose feeling but bomber block on the right (It’s been abused by a 5’ crowbar to no avail so go ahead and yard on it). Follow junky flakes and ledges to a groove/vertical seam system to the base of the crux headwall. When dry; go up and slightly right on small holds to the turf sticks/tree hooks that let you clip the anchors. When icy; go up and left to an ok stance below the dagger, then pull dagger to get established on the ice. A couple swings and you’re at the anchors.

Protection 

9 Quickdraws for bolts. NOTE: If you get on this early in the season you might have to chop out some of the bolts. I can tell you from experience this is would be much easier on TR than on lead... In a fat year the last bolt will be covered by the ice. Don’t worry about it as if that’s the case, once you get established on the ice, the anchors are right there. Also- the anchors often need some major hacking to get clear! It might be a good idea to bring a short screw to hang from if you are not sure about their status and have to unleash mongo to get them uncovered.

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BETA PHOTO: Reefer Madness - View from below (Feb '08)