This climb starts in the large and prominent Right facing dihedral about 20 feet Left of "The Chimney".
Description
Start at the bottom of a large right facing dihedral and move up following thin seam/cracks in corner. In some years, there is a bit of ice around the 6th/7th bolt. Past this, where the left wall of the dihedral goes away you have two options: move left to an awkward stance, then climb up and directly right to the anchors -or- go straight up on broken mungy ledges to anchor. The former is a little more insecure but little bit easier than the latter.
Protection
9 Quickdraws for bolts. It’s quite safe but I have heard some complaints so if enough people comment on wanting more bolts I’ll consider pulling them all and re-bolting it.
History
This route has been climbed in the summer as a scary 5.10 trad route, original protected with "a hammer and a bucket of borrowed pitons". Today however, it is excellent in it's current state as an exercise in torqueing and delicate footwork. No bucket needed…
(Thanks to James Loveridge for supplying the info above)
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