Private Property: Open (with restrictions) MORE INFO >>>
1. The site is on private land and we currently have an enthusiastic welcome from the property owner. Please help keep it that way. Please be very respectful of this land and any passer's by. We are fortunate to have the privilege to climb here. 2. Park well off the road, which may mean parking a short distance from the crag and not near the corner/intersection south of the crag. 3. Access the top by walking north of the crag, past the road sign to a path leading into the woods at the low point of the hill and work your way back south to the top. Avoid scrambling up steep loose dirt immediately north of the crag as this will increase erosion. 4. There are currently several routes bolted and several others climbed and cleaned without running anchors or TR anchors. We will be putting running bolts on 3 or so of the existing lines but leaving some as topropes to avoid a grid-bolted situation. All bolts are either dark or camouflaged due to the high visual impact that would occur with shiny silver. Please do not bolt existing lines and be sure to contact Shaun Tracy, Kiri Namtvedt or Dave Brandt with any questions in these matters. Email Glenn Burns for contact info. 5. There are some nice double-winged hangers for rappelling off cruxes (not getting lowered off from, mind you). Should you come to a crux and simply can't pull through, you can clip into the anchor and thread your rope through and rappel. These are not installed on all climbs; the route descriptions will tell you which ones have them. 6. Route ratings are rough and some have a range rather than a fixed grade for now--I'm not interested in arguing about ratings but am open to opinions as this is how ratings become solidified. We approximated ratings using standards at Barn Bluff. 7. The crag is young and, as a result, still a little loose in places and still a little dirty, but not bad at all. More traffic will clean it up a bit. 8. The crag can support about 3 teams (2 person crews) at a time not much more. If you go, please carpool and bring small groups. 9. Always smile when the locals drive by and stay out of their way on the road. 10. Enjoy. 2. Park well off the road, which may mean parking a short distance from the crag and not near the corner/intersection south of the crag. 3. Access the top by walking north of the crag, past the road sign to a path leading into the woods at the low point of the hill and work your way back south to the top. Avoid scrambling up steep. loose dirt immediately north of the crag as this will increase erosion. 4. There are currently several routes bolted and several others climbed and cleaned without running anchors or TR anchors. We will be putting running bolts on 3 or so of the existing lines but leaving some as topropes to avoid a grid-bolted situation. all bolts are either dark or camouflaged due to the high visual impact that would occur with shiny silver. Please do not bolt existing lines and be sure to contact Shaun Tracy, Kiri Namtvedt or Dave Brandt with any questions in these matters. Email Glenn Burns for contact info. 5. There are some nice double-winged hangers for rappelling off cruxes (not getting lowered off from, mind you). Should you come to a crux and simply can't pull through, you can clip into the anchor and thread your rope through and rappel. These are not installed on all climbs; the route descriptions will tell you which ones have them. 6. Route ratings are rough and some have a range rather than a fixed grade for now--I'm not interested in arguing about ratings but am open to opinions as this is how ratings become solidified. We approximated ratings using standards at Barn Bluff. 7. The crag is young and, as a result, still a little loose in places and still a little dirty, but not bad at all. More traffic will clean it up a bit. 8. The crag can support about 3 teams (2 person crews) at a time not much more. If you go, please carpool and bring small groups. 9. Always smile when the locals drive by and stay out of their way on the road. 10. Enjoy.
Shawn T. entering the niche below the crux on Latr...
Description
Originally 11b until a key hold broke. Now much more technical and demanding, but even better! Start on the right side of the slab (for full value avoid crack in corner) and dance your way towards the hanging niche above. Boldly forge upwards via a shallow 2-finger pocket leading to a hidden "thank-God" bucket and on to another left of the camoflauged anchor. Rappel hangers exist along this route to back off if its not your day.
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Jul 10, 2008
Excellent route, although I have not done the harder version now that a key hold has broken. Will withdraw my star rating until I get back there to check out the 'new' route, 4 stars previously.
By Bob Kryzer From: Mantorville, Minnesota Jan 23, 2009 rating: 5.11d
Thanks for the update on the rating. I always felt weak when I was falling by the last bolt when it was 5.11b Great route! Best for the area!
RSS Feed
Slideshow
