Here's the low-down: 1. The site is on private land and we currently have an enthusiastic welcome from him and we would like to keep it that way. Please be very respectful of his land and any passer's by. We are fortunate to have the privilege to climb here; please help us keep this open access. 2. Park well off the road, which may mean parking a short distance from the crag and not near the corner/intersection south of the crag. 3. Access the top by walking north of the crag, past the road sign to a path leading into the woods at the low point of the hill and work your way back south to the top. Avoid scrambling up steep. loose dirt immediately north of the crag as this will increase erosion. 4. There are currently several routes bolted and several others climbed and cleaned without running anchors or TR anchors. We will be putting running bolts on 3 or so of the existing lines but leaving some as topropes to avoid a grid-bolted situation. all bolts are either dark or camouflaged due to the high visual impact that would occur with shiny silver. Please do not bolt existing lines and be sure to contact Shaun Tracy, Kiri Namtvedt or Dave Brandt with any questions in these matters. Email Glenn Burns for contact info. 5. There are some nice double-winged hangers for rappelling off cruxes (not getting lowered off from, mind you). Should you come to a crux and simply can't pull through, you can clip into the anchor and thread your rope through and rappel. These are not installed on all climbs; the route descriptions will tell you which ones have them. 6. Route ratings are rough and some have a range rather than a fixed grade for now--I'm not interested in arguing about ratings but am open to opinions as this is how ratings become solidified. We approximated ratings using standards at Barn Bluff. 7. The crag is young and, as a result, still a little loose in places and still a little dirty, but not bad at all. More traffic will clean it up a bit. 8. The crag can support about 3 teams (2 person crews) at a time not much more. If you go, please carpool and bring small groups. 9. Always smile when the locals drive by and stay out of their way on the road. 10. Enjoy.
Description
"G" on the grid/photo. Left hand finish from the start of G/H. Fun edges and some big moves near the big flake. Nice overhang pull at the top. No top anchors yet. There is a rope with some biners used as a top anchor but it's old-- don't use it. Rap off the top bolt, or top it out.
Protection
Bolts but no anchors, so top it out or rap off the highest bolt. I think it's one of those 2-sided ones with wings. If it's a regular single sided hangar I would not rap off it alone.