Private Property: Open (with restrictions) MORE INFO >>>
1. The site is on private land and we currently have an enthusiastic welcome from the property owner. Please help keep it that way. Please be very respectful of this land and any passer's by. We are fortunate to have the privilege to climb here. 2. Park well off the road, which may mean parking a short distance from the crag and not near the corner/intersection south of the crag. 3. Access the top by walking north of the crag, past the road sign to a path leading into the woods at the low point of the hill and work your way back south to the top. Avoid scrambling up steep loose dirt immediately north of the crag as this will increase erosion. 4. There are currently several routes bolted and several others climbed and cleaned without running anchors or TR anchors. We will be putting running bolts on 3 or so of the existing lines but leaving some as topropes to avoid a grid-bolted situation. All bolts are either dark or camouflaged due to the high visual impact that would occur with shiny silver. Please do not bolt existing lines and be sure to contact Shaun Tracy, Kiri Namtvedt or Dave Brandt with any questions in these matters. Email Glenn Burns for contact info. 5. There are some nice double-winged hangers for rappelling off cruxes (not getting lowered off from, mind you). Should you come to a crux and simply can't pull through, you can clip into the anchor and thread your rope through and rappel. These are not installed on all climbs; the route descriptions will tell you which ones have them. 6. Route ratings are rough and some have a range rather than a fixed grade for now--I'm not interested in arguing about ratings but am open to opinions as this is how ratings become solidified. We approximated ratings using standards at Barn Bluff. 7. The crag is young and, as a result, still a little loose in places and still a little dirty, but not bad at all. More traffic will clean it up a bit. 8. The crag can support about 3 teams (2 person crews) at a time not much more. If you go, please carpool and bring small groups. 9. Always smile when the locals drive by and stay out of their way on the road. 10. Enjoy. 2. Park well off the road, which may mean parking a short distance from the crag and not near the corner/intersection south of the crag. 3. Access the top by walking north of the crag, past the road sign to a path leading into the woods at the low point of the hill and work your way back south to the top. Avoid scrambling up steep. loose dirt immediately north of the crag as this will increase erosion. 4. There are currently several routes bolted and several others climbed and cleaned without running anchors or TR anchors. We will be putting running bolts on 3 or so of the existing lines but leaving some as topropes to avoid a grid-bolted situation. all bolts are either dark or camouflaged due to the high visual impact that would occur with shiny silver. Please do not bolt existing lines and be sure to contact Shaun Tracy, Kiri Namtvedt or Dave Brandt with any questions in these matters. Email Glenn Burns for contact info. 5. There are some nice double-winged hangers for rappelling off cruxes (not getting lowered off from, mind you). Should you come to a crux and simply can't pull through, you can clip into the anchor and thread your rope through and rappel. These are not installed on all climbs; the route descriptions will tell you which ones have them. 6. Route ratings are rough and some have a range rather than a fixed grade for now--I'm not interested in arguing about ratings but am open to opinions as this is how ratings become solidified. We approximated ratings using standards at Barn Bluff. 7. The crag is young and, as a result, still a little loose in places and still a little dirty, but not bad at all. More traffic will clean it up a bit. 8. The crag can support about 3 teams (2 person crews) at a time not much more. If you go, please carpool and bring small groups. 9. Always smile when the locals drive by and stay out of their way on the road. 10. Enjoy.
Kiri Namtvedt approaching upper crux on Lupus (Kat...
Description
You have several options to start this excellent route. 1) The line of first ascent takes a direct line below the first bolt on a right-hand crimp and a left hand thumb gaston. This leads up to side by side layback crimps and then straight up through tenuous moves up to ledge and first bolt (11b). 2) Var. 1: Start on Route C then traverse over to the first bolt (10a/b). 3) Var.2: Start on the Alternate Start to Lupus as described by its separate listing (as its significantly differnet and harder than these two starts). In all three cases, it may be advisable to either stick clip the first bolt or bring a pad and good spotter.
Once at the first bolt, climb up and right to second bolt and over block to a stance below the face. For full value, stick to the moves on the face and eliminate the flake on your right. Climb to a point below the overhang where you get a nice jug for your left hand in the crack to clip from (bolt not visible until you get the hold and lean out). Climb jugs and final crimps on face directly below and right of anchors. DO NOT GET SUCKERED INTO THE MUNGY, ROTTEN CORNER AT YOUR LEFT--FINISH EITHER DIRECTLY THROUGH THE ANCHOR OR SLIGHTLY TO ITS RIGHT!
Protection
6 bolts (all but the first 2 have hangers that allow you to back off the route without leaving gear; clip into hanger with a draw, then thread the hanger with the rope and rapell--do not lower off through the hanger as this will wear out the hanger).
The first bolt may be higher up than some may be comfortable with considering the cruxy start. This is the result of the road shoulder's new grade (post summer 2007) changing to about 2-3 feet lower than when the route was established. Either use a pad and spotter, or stick clip if need be--Shawn Tracy.
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