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9. Chimney Buttress
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5.8

   

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Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Views: 92 page views

Submitted By: Doug Lintz on Oct 26, 2006


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X, Y, Z, and Neil.


Description 

X is the crack route at the right edge of Chimney Buttress's large roof. Start up the left side of the crack eventually moving to its right side. Continue over the small roof (crux) and up on easier terrain.


Protection 

Very protectable with nuts, medium to small cams, and hexes for the old schoolers or use a standard Blue Mounds toprope (long slings helpful).



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By Tyson S Arp
Feb 16, 2007
rating: 5.8+

I think this is a little harder than 5.7. I noticed last time I lead it that the footholds are much more polished than they used to be, so I can't see changing the rating from the original 5.8+ to 5.7.

By Doug Lintz
From: Lincoln, NE
Mar 8, 2007

Where did you find an "original" rating of 5.8+? Compared to other 5.7s at Blue Mounds I don't think it's any more difficult and the feet are solid.

By Tyson S Arp
Mar 8, 2007
rating: 5.8+

By "original" I am referring to the rating in the first guidebook for the park called "Prairie Walls" by Don Hynek & Eric Landmann. This book was published in 1989 and reprinted in 1993. Since then, ratings have been changed for many routes in the newer guidebooks that include Blue Mounds. Interestingly, however, most ratings have been bumped up recently and not down. Yes, it may not be an 8+, but I do think it is harder than Obvious Crack and Old Stump which are both 7's.

By Doug Lintz
From: Lincoln, NE
Mar 9, 2007

Ah, I've looked through the Hynek & Landmann guidebook before but don't own it. Regarding the overall grades at BM I've always felt they were definitely "old school".....a 5.9 here is usually a 5.10 elsewhere.

By Pete Hunt
From: Mankato, MN
Apr 26, 2008
rating: 5.8

X is also rated as a 5.8+ in "A Rock Climbing Guidebook To Blue Mounds State Park", which was written in 1989.