Blue Mounds State Park is located in the southwest corner of Minnesota. Located approximately 4 miles from the town of Luverne, BMSP offers rock climbing on quartzite similar to the rocks at Devils Lake, WI. The quartzite cliffs rise approximately 100 feet from the prairie and offer 50-60 foot climbs of various difficulty from 5.4 to 5.12. The area is primarily a traditional climbing crag, but top roping is possible with the proper gear. There are also number of bouldering problems. There are no bolted routes.
Getting There
From the town of Luverne, go north 4 miles on Minnesota Hwy. 75. Turn east on County Road 20 and go 1 mile to park entrance.
The most commonly used climbing parking lot is off Rock County 8. From Luverne take 75 north about 1 mile out of town (or from the state park ranger office take 75 south) and take a right on Rock County 8 . Continue on Rock County 8 for about a mile maybe less. As the road forks to the right there is a small parking lot on the left, park here. The majority of the approach trails are off the paved bike/pedestrian path. This bike/pedestrian path can also be reach from the camp grounds and you can approach the cliff from the north rather than the south.
A very fun and challenging route. Climb up to the roof, use hand jams to pull over the roof. Continue to the top of the crack using fists, and offwidth technique or any face features that can be found. I'd recommend taping as the rock can be kind of sharp.* RCM&W #45, p.43....[more]
Have you been to Blue Mounds? It's mainly a toproping place except for the moderates, actually BM would is a good place for headpointing. I suggest Cactus Capers, No Go Crack, The Layback, Death Scream, and Purgatory if you want to try some "leadable" hard climbs.