"Chinese Freedom and this route share the same start. Climb the start of "Chinese Freedom" and traverse up and left from the hueco 15ft off the deck. Once established on a ledge climb up the bolt line through difficult hold finding. At a sloped right facing edge, traverse straight left and up to the chains. Most people find the traverse sequence to be somewhat tricky.. Fun edge filled climbing. Definitely one of the better 5.10's on the winter wall. Loose rock often lurks by the chains so beware!
Do the direct start and it adds a couple hard moves and gives this route a definite feel or its own rather than starting with Chinese Freedom. Give it a shot.
By Glenn Burns Administrator From: St. Paul, MN May 20, 2008
jeff:
arno ilgner did the direct start and made it look easy... i could barely get off the ground... its definitely there and a lot of fun.