Joel Therneau cruising through the crux traverse. ...
Description
Chinese Freedom is one of the best climbs at Red Wing, offering great technical climbing, bomber rock(for MN dolomite, that is), and two back to back cruxes that couldn't be more different in character. Twenty feet of crimpy climbing brings you to the cruxes. The first is a delicate, improbable cross through off a flat undercling sloper. The sloper can't really be grasped, just pushed up on by standing up, and crossing through seems ridiculous until you finally commit and go for it. Many people, particularly those of a shorter stature, end up lunging at the end of the cross through; luckily the pockets you're reaching for are two of the most improbably perfect jugs you'll ever encounter on a route. Shake out and clip from the jugs, then go for the next crux; a huge deadpoint dyno to a flat edge three or four feet above the holes. This hold must be hit perfectly to prevent you're feet from popping off the nonexistent smears for feet. Once through the second crux, easier climbing featuring a fist jam rest, the world's best two finger pocket, and a couple of perfect oxide crimps lead to one last long move to a jug at the anchors.
Winter Wall
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