A beautiful, overhanging, and intimidating climb on good rock. It looks very long from the ground, and while you're on it that inpression is confirmed. The first third is not too bad, sort of warming up for the bouldery crux about 20 feet up. There are two ways to do it; don't pick wrong or it's about 2-3 letter grades harder. Then it's a scramble to a half-decent rest in the big hole before sprinting to the finishing holds while you still have the energy. Really, really fun route. It got a 12c in Farris' book but we pretty much all agree that's a little soft. I'll put 12b here even though it's easier than Living All Over Me to split the difference between Farris' rating and what it probably is in reality. Enjoy!
RCM&W #28, p. 121
Or, just left of Barney Rubble on this shot. Thanks Kris.
Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.
Hey Travis. Defintely a good one to work on, as long as you have already climbed Living All Over Me, Work Ethic, Talking With God, and Fallout. I liked it as much as Start of Something Good, Arachnid Tendencies, Kelly's Arete, and Soft Touch. Actually, Soft Touch is kind of a one move wonder, so skip that one, although it's pretty fun. I never got a chance to work Mississippi Burning before moving out of state, so can't comment on that one.
I would say more enduro than techy but there are a couple technical balancy moves, depending how you do it.
The beta for Preemptive Strike is: drumroll: climb fast.
Only partially kidding. Adam and others say this route is 12a/b. I think the guidebook pegs it at 12c. I'm bad a rating stuff, but I thought it was hard. I guess comparing it to Living All Over Me, it's easier but longer. I got pretty pumped at the top. If you want actual beta, I will tell you there are 2 ways to do the crux about 20 feet up. You can trend left and go up a seam and then pull back right into the line of bolts, which is how most people do it. You can also ignore that seam and make it a lot harder on yourself going straight up the bulge. The big hole at the top is sandy, and it's said you can get a knee bar in there. I never could, so just shake out and move on. Go RIGHT after the huge hole, not left or straight up. Climb fast.
Thanks for the beta Chris, I've done all of those but Living all over me which i've been trying. So I was looking to add another route to the list and this is sounding like a good choice. Thanks again for your help
You bet, good luck. Great time of year to send. When I was on it, it was July and awful. If you ever come to Madison PM me and we can hit Governor Dodge or the Lake if I'm not working. Chris
By Darin Limvere Administrator Oct 25, 2007 rating: 5.12a/b
I think the knee bar only works if you have really long legs. For all those with freak show legs, it's a full no hands rest...
I could never get the knee bar just right. Skipping it may be contrived but makes for a better route and offers a possibility of an impressive fall from the shuts IMHO.
A great climb that somehow finds the best position on the winter wall: a soaring shield on good holds very near the highest point of the entire face. At that point, you seem high above your last bolt, and after a couple of thin holds, you get giant jugs to clip the anchors. Next time you're up there, take a second to look around and appreciate your position. Starts and middles on fun sections that don't check in harder than v4, though you can get a pump. 12a/b
Winter Wall
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