Advanced Birding is a nice climb past 2 small roofs that is a couple climbs right of Perfect Crimb. (Three climbs to the right to be exact). It is a load of fun and easy for the 'book grade' (12b) so lots of people use as it as their attempt at onsighting or flashing a "12". Ignoring the grade issue for a second, it is still a 4 star climb, up an easy face to crimps above the first roof, and then a big move to a hueco below the next roof, then a couple power pulls and you're through. As for the rating, I'm going to change it 11+ since that what is the group concensus is right now.
RCM&W #87, p. 131
Protection
Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.
The 5.12b rating is either a mistake or a typo in the Farris's guidebook -- 5.11c feels more like it. This is definitely one of the best and most fun routes at Red Wing. Initial dirty ledges but excellent climbing through two large roofs higher up.
Great route! I agree since I nearly onsighted it several years ago, it cannot be in the 12 range, haha. Pretty soft, but very fun nonetheless. A definite "do" for the bluff.
A great, non-painful route to do every time you're in the perfect crimb area, and the best roof route at the crag. This route was a lot harder to on-sight six years ago when all the best holds weren't covered in chalk. About as hard as Work Ethic, Longing for Miss Adonis, or Kelly's Arete, and buckets of fun. It if ends up consensus 11c, I'll be a little surprised. Maybe climbers are just stronger on the steep than on the technical these days?
Probably you are right about the steep versus the technical, although Gorny is well versed in both aspects. I for one thought it was way easier than Kelly's Arete, and Miss Adonis is kind of a one move wonder so it's hard to compare. It's been a number of years since I did Work Ethic so it's probably not a fair comparison coming from me.
Guys, Advanced Birding seems to me a number grade easier than Perfect Sex, which is just to the left of it. In Farris's book they're both rated 12b. One of these ratings is off. Oh well, just numbers...
Awesome route nevertheless.
By Darin Limvere Administrator Oct 30, 2007 rating: 5.11c
Perfect Sex is a pretty solid 12b for redwing. I'm terrible on steep stuff and Advance Birding didn't feel very 12 to me... I would agree with kris. One of my favorites on the dark side. It's wierd, because the top of the route is so good that you completely forget about the bottom when you're clipping the chains.
Perfect Crimb Area
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