From the Big Roof, walk back left along the wall until you hit 3 bolt lines on a big flake. This is the left line. The crux is about 10-12 feet up where there is a strange sequence of shallow holds, several of which are often wet. After the crux it eases up and is blocky to the top. If I remember right, it shares anchors with the next route to the right, Quick Draw Moves to Hollywood. It's tricky and I think harder than the 11a rating the guiebook gives it.
RCM&W #118, p. 138
Protection
Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.
This was almost as long a project for me as Living All Over Me, which I think means it's tricky. Hard to read from below and even while you're on it. Surprsingly difficult crux section.
Something broke off this route? Chris, I climbed it together with Steve Leclerc and we both felt it was much harder than Quick Draw Moves to Hollywood just to the right. More like a solid 12a.
Yeah, I really thought 11a was way sandbagged. It was almost worse trying it thinking it was 11a and getting shut down. You're probably right something broke. The rock is chossy enough that a big key handhold could have broken... Oh well, it is what it is. It's the only route I've ever been dropped on, to have added insult to an injured ego. Hope you climbed something better than this climb today also...
It's definitely not the prettiest of them routes out there. Even for Red Wing standards. It kinda looks like you could catch some nasty STD from it if you're not careful :)
By Jonathan Williams From: now La Crosse, WI Aug 30, 2008 rating: 5.11a
I think this is only 11a. I think that the jug 3 feet from the third bolt is on the route, and with that hold on, it's only 11a. If you take that hold off, you could make it a lot harder, but with some good technique, it really isn't all that bad. My partner and I onsited it.
Large Roof Area
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