Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Cyclops Area
Show routes:
Select route...
Big Rocks Remembered 
Cyclops 
End Play 
Forearm Smash 
Pigeon Paranoia 
Piranha 
Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag 
Sobriety 
Suicide Squeeze 
Unknown 
Urban Chunks 
User Friendly 
Wasp Mentality 
Work Ethic 

Pigeon Paranoia 

5.10+

   

FA: Jeff Engel
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 264 page views

Submitted By: Glenn Burns on May 16, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

BETA PHOTO: Pigeon Paranoia


Description 

Around the corner from Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag. You'll run into a 8 foot block. Stem your way up between the wall and the block to the first bolt about 15 feet above and meander your way through a number of small holes. Work your way up, then left to the slab and enjoy the slightly run out slabby finish.

  • RCM&W #13, p. 117


Location 

left of the large block and about 5 feet right of Piranha.


Protection 

5 bolts and a two bolt anchor that should be replaced soon. The guide book indicates that the first bolt is missing. It is not, Jeff Engel - FA, removed the original first bolt as it didn't do much to protect the climb.



Add Photo Photos of Pigeon Paranoia
DP getting ready to move onto the topout slab.

DP getting ready to move onto the topout slab.


Add Comment Comments on Pigeon Paranoia
Show which comments
By Jonathan Williams
From: now La Crosse, WI
Mar 25, 2007

Very dirty, but nonetheless a fairly fun route.

C'mon, this is RED WING. Brush of the holds with your fingers and keep going. ;)

By ferrells
Nov 8, 2007
rating: 5.10c

this is a pretty good route, and deserves to be climbed more. the moves at the top are different than most at red wing. a little more like a 5.9 alpine slab perhaps, only with nice bolts. anybody care to argue? kind of dirty - but we minnesotans can handle that with the best of 'em. maybe if we can come to consensus grade on this one, it will become a little more popular, and take some of the pressure off of jump start and sleeping bat.

By Kris Gorny
Nov 28, 2007
rating: 5.10c

Agree with ferrells. Very fun and unusual, "exposed", crux. Watch out on the sharp holds below the hueco. I broke some off last time I was on it.

By K Ice
From: Saint Paul, MN
Apr 11, 2008

Great wrist slot in the hole right before the slab. Great climb!