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Annadonia Area
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Annadonia 

5.11b

   

FA: 
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 75 feet
Views: 420 page views

Submitted By: Andrew May on May 18, 2006


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Description 

A tough start into some really good powerful climbing. The final moves are pretty tough too.


Location 

This route is about 10 feet to the left of Looking for Lust.


Protection 

Bring a 60m rope and 8 draws.



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By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Jun 1, 2007

Did this climb a long time ago and then bouldered the bottom again last summer. Either I have gotten a lot better (possible) or the bottom is a lot easier now than it was then (probable). Does anyone know if it's been modified or has the traffic just worn the patina off making that holds deeper and better?

By Darin Limvere
Administrator
Oct 30, 2007

Many believe the two finger pocket was drilled out pretty hard. bummer. The feet have gotten greasier though. Maybe it equals it out. I remember the pocket being a full pad two finger. Now I can get 3/4 of my finger in it......?

By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Nov 27, 2007

That's what I thought. That's too bad.

By ferrells
Dec 4, 2007

I'm curious about this chipped hold issue. The first day I climbed at Red Wing, about six ago, the guy that I climbed with pointed to Annadonia and told me that someone had come "in the last couple of years" and chipped a new hold into the start (Buddy Tangolous). One of the holds definitely looks chiseled, but I don't think the other holds were touched. My guess is that the chipping was an isolated incident, and that it happened more than six years ago. Anybody have any ideas to the contrary? Anybody know who did it?

By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Dec 5, 2007

Well, I am not sure who, what, why, or when, but I know where. All I know is I did the full route once, on September 21, 2003, and have not been on it in it's entirety since that day, but I bouldered the bottom of it summer 2006 and it seemed a *lot* easier. There was a very shallow crimp for 2 fingers that was essentially the crux of the route right off the ground in 2003. Now it's a deep pocket, see Darin's comment above. Other than that, I have no idea. I have a hard time believing anyone would purposefully drill it out, maybe all the natural wear? Doubtful...