There's a rumor that a foothold broke off this route, making it more difficult for shorter folks. I still think it goes at 12c if you're 5'10" or taller; I don't know!
A totally underappreciated route. One new quick-clip at the top for lowering to go with the hook and other biner.
This is a great route. In my mind, it is split into three sections. The first is getting to the undercling, which for me requires a dyno for the first move, a couple of careful smears, and a long move into a tensiony span. The second moves from the undercling through a couple of small crimps, and up to the crux hold, a sloping crimp thing. This hold used to be a giant flat edge, but was broken a couple of years ago (I know who did it, and I heard last year that he still thinks about gluing it back on). For me, moving through that hold (and making that clip) is the crux of the route. Once established on the great crimp to the right of the broken hold, you work your way up through a nice little pocket (one or two fingers, depending) and a couple of edges. Dr. Hirsch says you have to dyno, but I just edge my way up with my right hand, getting my feet high, and reach to the jug. The final bit is a great finish on surprisingly solid holds (except for a small dirty section). The end doesn't compare to the difficulty of the beginning, but you still have to think your way through it, and there are a couple of great moves up there. I never climbed the route before the hold broke, but right now, it climbs great. I hope that hold never gets glued back on. My favorite 12d at Red Wing.
By randy baum From: Minneapolis, MN Sep 13, 2009 rating: 5.12c
light my fire is located between rock pigs and super high tech jetfighter (the route just to the left of kelly's arete).
the climb got its name because the first ascentionist used a blow torch to dry out the holds between redpoint burns. red wing laughed at this man's delusions, saying, "blow torch, smore norch. these holds will always be greasy and chossy!" with that, engel punched the base of the route, thus creating the great two-finger pocket at its start. that guy has no ethics, brauh.
for the start, i recommend skipping the first bolt and just stick clipping the second. and have your belayer stand to your right. with this setup, you'll have an unobstructed throw for the undercling.
at a foot or so above the fourth bolt, there is a crubmling pinch (especilaly at it's base/bottom). tread carefully. and don't blow -- or blame -- your RP on this, homie.
takes five draws. anchors have leaver biners -- and a dead bush that obstructs clipping! (how can red wings rock crumble so easily, but that bush lives on year after year??!)
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