By ferrells Oct 25, 2007 rating: 5.12c
| Yeah, I put that biner on the last bolt last year when I did the route. When I lowered off, I ran the rope through the anchors, and clipped that biner in case the anchor failed, hoping that others would leave it there and do the same to be safe. It'd be nice if people left it there until the anchors were fixed so that no one has to fall sixty feet. The route has two hard sections. The first couple of moves are the most powerful, with a couple of long reaches to holds pointing the wrong way while you're smearing on little greasy stuff. Once established on the layback and crimps, the climbing is easier and fun for perhaps twenty feet. The second challenging section, what I think you're talking about Jordan, comes up next. I tried it by establishing on a couple of okay crimps and throwing my left hand far up to the left to an invisible hold. This ended up being hit or miss for me, so I found a small, sharp gaston crimp for my right hand. Combined with a high foot, it's possible to do the move to the good crimp on the left in a more static manner. From there, it's choss to the anchors. Not to put down the route, but this section is fairly exciting for it's dirtiness. I broke several holds on the finish last year, and took a big screaming fall when both of my handholds ripped off almost simultaneously. That said, the cruxes below are great, and the route is worth doing. |