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Rock Pigs 

5.12c/d

   

FA: Nate Postma, 1989
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12+ [details]
Views: 315 page views

Submitted By: Glenn Burns on May 19, 2006


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Description 

  • RCM&W #34, p. 123


Protection 

bolts



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By Chris Hirsch
Sep 4, 2006

Anchors are looking terribly rusted. Use the bail biner on the last bolt to lower.

By Jordan Seering
Sep 15, 2007
rating: 5.12d

Any beta for the crux?

By ferrells
Oct 25, 2007
rating: 5.12c

Yeah, I put that biner on the last bolt last year when I did the route. When I lowered off, I ran the rope through the anchors, and clipped that biner in case the anchor failed, hoping that others would leave it there and do the same to be safe.
It'd be nice if people left it there until the anchors were fixed so that no one has to fall sixty feet.
The route has two hard sections. The first couple of moves are the most powerful, with a couple of long reaches to holds pointing the wrong way while you're smearing on little greasy stuff. Once established on the layback and crimps, the climbing is easier and fun for perhaps twenty feet.
The second challenging section, what I think you're talking about Jordan, comes up next. I tried it by establishing on a couple of okay crimps and throwing my left hand far up to the left to an invisible hold. This ended up being hit or miss for me, so I found a small, sharp gaston crimp for my right hand. Combined with a high foot, it's possible to do the move to the good crimp on the left in a more static manner.
From there, it's choss to the anchors. Not to put down the route, but this section is fairly exciting for it's dirtiness. I broke several holds on the finish last year, and took a big screaming fall when both of my handholds ripped off almost simultaneously. That said, the cruxes below are great, and the route is worth doing.

By Brandonbus
Apr 6, 2008
rating: 5.12c

Like "Light My Fire" to its right, "Rock Pigs" is another under-appreciated route on the winter wall. Really fun with a big move mid route. Good rests between hard climbing.

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Nov 8, 2009
rating: 5.12c

cheers to you ferrels, but i can't use that right-hand gaston beta for the crux. i think it's just best to do the move to the edge.

also, i think the moves above the crux are fun. particularly, i like the moves -- moving off the sloping dish to the pocketed crimps -- from the last bolt to the "anchor" (the leaver biner at the true last bolt).