Thief of Wives 

boulder problems with bolts?

FA- Jeremy Mariette

thanks for the FA info jeff, can you also give a description. i can reassign the route to either you or jeremy

-=glenn=-

Unclear exactly what the "rules" on this v7 are, after the "triangle on the arete" (which demarks the point at which the arete can be used). I've heard that you are supposed to stay left on the face all the way to the lip. I think that this may be v7. Otherwise, using the arete to climb to the top comes in closer to Minnesota v5/V6.

Jonathan

PS-- Somebody added bolts (2) to this climb after it was bouldered, as I understand it. Probably because of the height, or the slab to the left which is mostly out of the way, but not entirely.

Ya, it's an eliminate... Climb it however you want I guess.. Supposedly some French dude bolted it years back and never got the "red point."

This is the lone boulder problem at Red Wing, and it's a doozy! A thin and technical start leads into slopey sidepulls and a slap to the arete. Body tension and a cool head are key through the high crux, crimps and sidepulls to the top. A slip will lead to a long ride to the ground!

This climb is an eliminate. None of the jugs or corner are on for your hands until above the "triange" of the corner 10-12 feet up. What feet are "on" aren't necessarily clear. I was able to do it using just dishes/smears/heel hooking for feet, although you'll be desperate to keep your feet off the jugs at the crux! Remember, the only person you have to answer to is yourself (and your friends). :)

There are pointed rocks that scatter the otherwise flat landing. Two-three pads and a spotter are key.

JW