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Minnesota Side Bouldering

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Boneyards, The 
Boonyards aka The B2 Pit, The 
Boulder (Unknown name) 
Path to Got Me 
Pit, The 
Sizzlefoot Wall 
Slicksides Pit 
Warm Up Wall 

Minnesota Side Bouldering  


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Administrators: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jonathan Williams on Mar 23, 2009
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Description 

Taylors Falls Bouldering enjoys a long history extending at least into the 1970s. It has been a stable training and play grounds for Twin Cities and St. Croix River local climbers, as well as a popular destination for day-tripping Minneapolis-Saint Paul tourists.

The park is centered around a bend in the Saint Croix River and the "Potholes Trail," a series of rounded and polished holes worn over centuries from the basalt found in the park, and extending from inches across to 60 feet in diameter.

The climbing is renowned for it's smooth, polished rock, and infamous slopers, crimps, and poor feet. Numerous short crack routes/problems are found amongst very hard powerful crimp problems.

There are numerous classic problems in the Potholes, and almost every problem qualifies as good. There is endless VB bouldering along the Tourist Rocks area. Several sought-after ticks include B2 Bomber (V4, in the Boonyards, or B2 Pit), Slicksides (V0 crack highball), Lunge or Plunge (V4 throw from underclings), Nanhole (V0), Twinkletoes (V3, technical), and Left of Lloyds stand (V9? recently broken foot). One of the hardest lines in Minnesota, and the midwest for that matter, This Sporting Life (aka Left of Lloyds Sit, V12) can be found in the Boneyards Pit.

Bouldering can be had all year round, depending on the severity of the winter and snow, and your tolerance of cold toes. The dead of summer brings soupy humidity, and swarms of mosquitoes; bees can cover the sun-facing walls in August and September.

Numerous guidebooks have been attempted over the years, none of them ever formally published. Rumors persist of a "guidebook in the works," but for now, problems are found in the hearts of the old-timers locals and the imagination of the younger generation.

Please feel free to add any knowledge you have of bouldering history or established problems to this website.

A separate section exists for Wisconsin Taylors Falls/Interstate Park bouldering under the Wisconsin heading. Perhaps some day the two will be merged, but for the time being, they remain separate.

Getting There 

Taylors Falls State Park is found in Taylors Falls, Minnesota, immediately off the main road (State Highway 8), immediately west of the bridge into Wisconsin.

maps.google.com/maps?f=q&sourc...

Descriptions for problems are listed with each problem/sector.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.3 miles from here

65 Total Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',27],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',7],['V2-3',31],['V4-5',16],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',5],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',5],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Minnesota Side Bouldering:
Slicksides   V0-1 4+     Boulder, 15'   Slicksides Pit
Bad Habit   V0-1 4+     Boulder, 6'   Sizzlefoot Wall
Nanhole   V1- 5-     Boulder, 14'   The Boneyards
The Crack   V1 5     Boulder, 12'   The Pit
Spread Eagle   V2 5+     Boulder, 15'   The Pit
Slickside Pit Traverse   V2 5+     Boulder, 25'   Slicksides Pit
Boneyards Dyno   V2 5+     Boulder, 10'   The Boneyards
Primordial Soup   V2 5+     Boulder   The Boneyards
Spider Tracks   V3 6A     Boulder, 14'   The Boneyards
Lloyd's (Crack)   V3 6A     Boulder, 12'   The Boneyards
Twinkletoes   V3-4 6A+     Boulder, 12'   The Pit
Miasma   V4 6B     Boulder, 8'   Sizzlefoot Wall
B2 Bomber   V4 6B     Boulder, 14'   The Boonyards aka The B2 Pi...
Lunge or Plunge   V4 6B     Boulder, 15'   Slicksides Pit
Sizzlefoot   V4 6B R     TR, Boulder, 20'   Sizzlefoot Wall
One Slim Fish   V4-5 6B+ R     TR, Boulder, 18'   The Pit
Unknown Prow   V5 6C     Boulder, 8'   Slicksides Pit
B2 Bomber Traverse   V5 6C     Boulder, 25'   The Boonyards aka The B2 Pi...
Shot Down In Flames   V5 6C     Boulder, 12'   The Boonyards aka The B2 Pi...
Genetic Control   V7-8 7B R     TR, Boulder, 20'   Sizzlefoot Wall
Browse More Classics in Minnesota Side Bouldering

Featured Route For Minnesota Side Bouldering
Shot Down in Flames.

Shot Down In Flames V5 6C  MN : Interstate SP (Taylors Fall... : ... : The Boonyards aka The B2 Pi...
This route is most easily recognized by it's pair of double D slopers, at the far left of the "left" wall (the B2 Bomber wall). The entrance rock and the "crack" are off. Sit start with good holds and big feet, and move up to the slopers. Paw at these for awhile, and then move left to a non-obvious but not-bad crimp. Either move left and up (for the left variation, less fun), or move back to the right to a thrilling finish. More or less the same grade, both variations, maybe slightly easier movi...[more]   Browse More Classics in MN

Photos of Minnesota Side Bouldering Slideshow Add Photo
The Sizzlefoot Wall.
BETA PHOTO: The Sizzlefoot Wall.
The Boneyards. Lloyd's, Left of Lloyd's, Spidertra...
BETA PHOTO: The Boneyards. Lloyd's, Left of Lloyd's, Spidertra...
Found on the Internet: a nice overview map of the ...
BETA PHOTO: Found on the Internet: a nice overview map of the ...
The Slicksides Pit, from above.
BETA PHOTO: The Slicksides Pit, from above.
Group top-out in the Boneyards.
Group top-out in the Boneyards.
The Pit/Armpit.
BETA PHOTO: The Pit/Armpit.
What is the name of the problem that climbs the ar...
BETA PHOTO: What is the name of the problem that climbs the ar...

Comments on Minnesota Side Bouldering Add Comment
Show which comments
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Apr 11, 2009
Nice pics Jonathan, brings back memories. How about the route descriptions?
By Jonathan Williams
From: Minneapolis
Apr 12, 2009
Hey Remo, I'm moving a bit slow I know. Getting a bit slammed at work right now and with the move upcoming. I'll try to get to it in the next week or two.... JW
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Apr 13, 2009
Cool man no rush. Where are you moving to?