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Boneyards, The 
Boonyards aka The B2 Pit, The 
Boulder (Unknown name) 
Pit, The 
Sizzlefoot Wall 
Slicksides Pit 

Minnesota Side Bouldering 


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Administrators: Kris Gorny, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Jonathan Williams on Mar 23, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Found on the Internet: a nice overview map of the ...

Description 

Taylors Falls Bouldering enjoys a long history extending at least into the 1970s. It has been a stable training and play grounds for Twin Cities and St. Croix River local climbers, as well as a popular destination for day-tripping Minneapolis-Saint Paul tourists.

The park is centered around a bend in the Saint Croix River and the "Potholes Trail," a series of rounded and polished holes worn over centuries from the basalt found in the park, and extending from inches across to 60 feet in diameter.

The climbing is renowned for it's smooth, polished rock, and infamous slopers, crimps, and poor feet. Numerous short crack routes/problems are found amongst very hard powerful crimp problems.

There are numerous classic problems in the Potholes, and almost every problem qualifies as good. There is endless VB bouldering along the Tourist Rocks area. Several sought-after ticks include B2 Bomber (V4, in the Boonyards, or B2 Pit), Slicksides (V0 crack highball), Lunge or Plunge (V4 throw from underclings), Nanhole (V0), Twinkletoes (V3, technical), and Left of Lloyds stand (V9? recently broken foot). One of the hardest lines in Minnesota, and the midwest for that matter, This Sporting Life (aka Left of Lloyds Sit, V12) can be found in the Boneyards Pit.

Bouldering can be had all year round, depending on the severity of the winter and snow, and your tolerance of cold toes. The dead of summer brings soupy humidity, and swarms of mosquitoes; bees can cover the sun-facing walls in August and September.

Numerous guidebooks have been attempted over the years, none of them ever formally published. Rumors persist of a "guidebook in the works," but for now, problems are found in the hearts of the old-timers locals and the imagination of the younger generation.

Please feel free to add any knowledge you have of bouldering history or established problems to this website.

A separate section exists for Wisconsin Taylors Falls/Interstate Park bouldering under the Wisconsin heading. Perhaps some day the two will be merged, but for the time being, they remain separate.


Getting There 

Taylors Falls State Park is found in Taylors Falls, Minnesota, immediately off the main road (State Highway 8), immediately west of the bridge into Wisconsin.

maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Taylors>>>

Descriptions for problems are listed with each problem/sector.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Minnesota Side Bouldering:
Slicksides   V0-1     Boulder, 15 feet   Slicksides Pit
Bad Habit   V0-1     Boulder, 6 feet   Sizzlefoot Wall
Nanhole   V1-     Boulder, 14 feet   The Boneyards
Slickside Pit Traverse   V2     Boulder, 25 feet   Slicksides Pit
Spread Eagle   V2     Boulder, 15 feet   The Pit
Primordial Soup   V2     Boulder   The Boneyards
Lloyd's (Crack)   V3     Boulder, 12 feet   The Boneyards
Spider Tracks   V3     Boulder, 14 feet   The Boneyards
Twinkletoes   V3-4     Boulder, 12 feet   The Pit
Sizzlefoot   V4 R     TR, Boulder, 20 feet   Sizzlefoot Wall
Lunge or Plunge   V4     Boulder, 15 feet   Slicksides Pit
Digitalis   V4     Boulder, 12 feet   Slicksides Pit
B2 Bomber   V4     Boulder, 14 feet   The Boonyards aka The B2 Pi...
One Slim Fish   V4-5 R     TR, Boulder, 18 feet   The Pit
B2 Bomber Traverse   V5     Boulder, 25 feet   The Boonyards aka The B2 Pi...
Unknown Prow   V5     Boulder, 8 feet   Slicksides Pit
Shot Down In Flames   V5     Boulder, 12 feet   The Boonyards aka The B2 Pi...
Genetic Control   V7-8 R     TR, Boulder, 20 feet   Sizzlefoot Wall
A Wing and a Prayer (formerly known as "Social Candy")   V11     Boulder, 14 feet   The Boonyards aka The B2 Pi...
Left of Lloyd's   V11     Boulder, 12 feet   The Boneyards
Browse More Classics in Minnesota Side Bouldering

Featured Route For Minnesota Side Bouldering
Brandon Holtorf in front of Lunge or Plunge. Not the greatest beta photo but at least it's something.

Lunge or Plunge V4  MN : Interstate SP (Taylors Fall... : ... : Slicksides Pit


Photos of Minnesota Side Bouldering Slideshow Add Photo
The Boneyards. Lloyd's, Left of Lloyd's, Spidertracks all seen in this photo.

BETA PHOTO: The Boneyards. Lloyd's, Left of Lloyd's, Spidertra...

The Slicksides Pit, from above.

BETA PHOTO: The Slicksides Pit, from above.

The Pit/Armpit.

BETA PHOTO: The Pit/Armpit.

The Sizzlefoot Wall.

BETA PHOTO: The Sizzlefoot Wall.

Group top-out in the Boneyards.

Group top-out in the Boneyards.

Large version for beta photo for taylors falls bouldeing

BETA PHOTO: Large version for beta photo for taylors falls bou...

What is the name of the problem that climbs the arete?  The problem uses small crimps on either side of the arete.

BETA PHOTO: What is the name of the problem that climbs the ar...


Comments on Minnesota Side Bouldering Add Comment
Show which comments
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Apr 11, 2009

Nice pics Jonathan, brings back memories. How about the route descriptions?

By Jonathan Williams
From: Palo Alto, CA
Apr 12, 2009

Hey Remo, I'm moving a bit slow I know. Getting a bit slammed at work right now and with the move upcoming. I'll try to get to it in the next week or two.... JW

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Apr 13, 2009

Cool man no rush. Where are you moving to?

By d.olmschenk
Apr 9, 2012

Whoever is SPRAYING the rock with chalk: Please have a little restraint! You're not going to freaking send in the rain! Please practice leave-no-trace, including the use of your chalk. It's a fact that the rock seeps at Taylors, but deal with it some other way. It's stuff like this that makes me think the tourists are actually doing a better job respecting the environment than climbers are.