|Minnesota Side Bouldering
Taylors Falls Bouldering enjoys a long history extending at least into the 1970s. It has been a stable training and play grounds for Twin Cities and St. Croix River local climbers, as well as a popular destination for day-tripping Minneapolis-Saint Paul tourists.
The park is centered around a bend in the Saint Croix River and the "Potholes Trail," a series of rounded and polished holes worn over centuries from the basalt found in the park, and extending from inches across to 60 feet in diameter.
The climbing is renowned for it's smooth, polished rock, and infamous slopers, crimps, and poor feet. Numerous short crack routes/problems are found amongst very hard powerful crimp problems.
There are numerous classic problems in the Potholes, and almost every problem qualifies as good. There is endless VB bouldering along the Tourist Rocks area. Several sought-after ticks include B2 Bomber (V4, in the Boonyards, or B2 Pit), Slicksides (V0 crack highball), Lunge or Plunge (V4 throw from underclings), Nanhole (V0), Twinkletoes (V3, technical), and Left of Lloyds stand (V9? recently broken foot). One of the hardest lines in Minnesota, and the midwest for that matter, This Sporting Life (aka Left of Lloyds Sit, V12) can be found in the Boneyards Pit.
Bouldering can be had all year round, depending on the severity of the winter and snow, and your tolerance of cold toes. The dead of summer brings soupy humidity, and swarms of mosquitoes; bees can cover the sun-facing walls in August and September.
Numerous guidebooks have been attempted over the years, none of them ever formally published. Rumors persist of a "guidebook in the works," but for now, problems are found in the hearts of the old-timers locals and the imagination of the younger generation.
Please feel free to add any knowledge you have of bouldering history or established problems to this website.
A separate section exists for Wisconsin Taylors Falls/Interstate Park bouldering under the Wisconsin heading. Perhaps some day the two will be merged, but for the time being, they remain separate.
Taylors Falls State Park is found in Taylors Falls, Minnesota, immediately off the main road (State Highway 8), immediately west of the bridge into Wisconsin.
Descriptions for problems are listed with each problem/sector.
59 Total Routes
['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',22],['2 Stars',26],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Minnesota Side Bouldering:
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|Photos of Minnesota Side Bouldering Slideshow
BETA PHOTO: The Sizzlefoot Wall.
BETA PHOTO: The Boneyards. Lloyd's, Left of Lloyd's, Spidertra...
BETA PHOTO: Found on the Internet: a nice overview map of the ...
BETA PHOTO: The Slicksides Pit, from above.
Group top-out in the Boneyards.
BETA PHOTO: The Pit/Armpit.
BETA PHOTO: What is the name of the problem that climbs the ar...
|Comments on Minnesota Side Bouldering
From: Madison, WI
Apr 11, 2009
Nice pics Jonathan, brings back memories. How about the route descriptions?
|By Jonathan Williams|
From: Palo Alto, CA
Apr 12, 2009
Hey Remo, I'm moving a bit slow I know. Getting a bit slammed at work right now and with the move upcoming. I'll try to get to it in the next week or two.... JW
From: Madison, WI
Apr 13, 2009
Cool man no rush. Where are you moving to?
Apr 9, 2012
Whoever is SPRAYING the rock with chalk: Please have a little restraint! You're not going to freaking send in the rain! Please practice leave-no-trace, including the use of your chalk. It's a fact that the rock seeps at Taylors, but deal with it some other way. It's stuff like this that makes me think the tourists are actually doing a better job respecting the environment than climbers are.