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Miner's Delight 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Joe Desimone, Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright, 2003
Page Views: 1,740
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 10, 2003
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BETA PHOTO

Description 

Miner's Delight was conceived and started by Joe Desimone in 1996, and finally completed by Richard Wright and Mark Tarrant in 2003. Hike up the talus field to the middle of this huge, fin-like buttress. The blocky talus dike has been cairned adjacent to EOA. Miners Delight is 100 feet uphill and begins in right facing corner system that starts out by powering up to a clip that is made from a small adherent ledge. The obvious seam 20 feet right is Smeagol's Way. The variation second pitch branches left of the upper dihedral at 90 feet and goes to a separate rap station.

P1 of MD runs up on complex and often hidden corners, edges, and blocks. The climbing is on very solid features that were extensively cleaned by Joe; however, it is advisable to stay close to the intended line since the wall still kicks up loose rock where it has never seen human hands. This is a killer pitch with good movement and solid stone. A first run through felt like 5.11c, so call it b/c for now. The climbing felt a lot like 80 Feet of Meat at Rifle, but longer. Fifteen draws are required to clip everything.

P2 runs through the dihedral above and is protected by thirteen bolts. The stone here is brilliant, the climbing loads more strenuous than it may appear, and with thirteen clips will not feel in the least over-protected. This can be a spooky lead. The dihedral overhangs, the hardest moves are the most exposed, and despite climbing in a dihedral there are still some pumpy, exposed decisions to be made. Done one way, the pitch goes at 5.11c, but perhaps it's 5.11b if done with a different sequence.

Overall, Miner's Delight is a terrific line in an alpine setting, and climbs on granite that is about as good as it gets. FFA for everything goes to Mark.


Protection 

This two pitch route needs a 60 m rope, fifteen draws, and something for the double bolt anchors at the top of each pitch. P1 is 100+ feet long but will rap to the ground with 60 meters. P2 is 90 feet long and raps to a double bolt anchor. Tie your ropes together!! Alternatively, one can climb onto the ledge at the top of P2, belay from the block, and walk off North (away from the road).



Photos of Miner's Delight Slideshow Add Photo
Diana ready on Miner's Delight.
Diana ready on Miner's Delight.
Ready for Miner's Delight on RA, Halidome in the background.
Ready for Miner's Delight on RA, Halidome in the b...
Comments on Miner's Delight Add Comment
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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Aug 11, 2003

Miners Delight is now a done deal, and modifications have been added to the description. I got the route bolted to the ground and finally run in August 2003. Mark Tarrant ran both pitches for their FFA. I'm going with three stars and 5.11 on both pitches. Both pitches are fully bolted. The rock is solid, frequently brilliant, very continuous, and the exposure is terrific. I have added several additional pitches to the area, so watch the description for access to MD.

By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Aug 21, 2006
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

There's a belay on a shelf about 85' up, which I'm assuming is not meant as the first pitch belay (though it is in terrific position to use as such). Using this belay breaks up the first pitch before reaching the crux and allows to you go at it with fresh arms, definitely making the pitch easier. The cold shuts are another ~30' further up from the first anchors you see. The second pitch is really good and continuous, but in the realm of 10+ (maybe... 11-).

Richard isn't kidding about the second rap being 100+ feet. Our 60m rope wasn't touching the ground when I started the rap, but I got there with stretch. It would be a very good idea to slap a prussik on for the first rap, as it hangs free and requires a couple of swings to catch the anchors.

By orin salah
Jun 24, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

I personally thought that the second pitch was harder than the first. It's a lot easier to read the moves compared to the first pitch, but I think the moves are harder and more sustained. Either way, the bottom has fun climbing and the top is fantastic on excellent rock. A great route, many thanks to Richard and Joe for all their hard work up at Ra.

By James R. Arnold
Jun 25, 2007

Climbed this route after EOR yesterday with Joe Chorny. Very nice would have to agree as 3-4 stars. Very good rock and varied moves. The first pitch is steeper and tends to be pumpier while the second pitch is thinner and more technical. Joe and I both thought the other person's lead was the harder pitch - I guess one focuses a little more when on the lead. Both pitches are somewhere in the hard 10 to mid eleven range. From the posts the raps sounded like a little more trouble than they are worth since it is easy (and probably safer) to walk down from the top though the talus is not good for your climbing shoes.

We'll have to come back to RA a few more times as there are a few more high quality 11s to try. Thanks to all for putting some such nice routes in a quiet and cool setting.

By Dan Brockway
From: Boulder
Jul 8, 2007

Wow, what a great route. A very nice exposed "jughaul" and indeed pumpy. We walked off and that seemed safe and easier than rapping.

By Mark Ferguson
Aug 6, 2007

As good as it gets. Amazing route. The raps are easy and faster than walking off.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 3, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

P1: 11b, P2 11a. Both are very fun and on very good rock. I only wish it were longer, like the routes further to the right.

By slim
Administrator
Aug 3, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Partner and I thought around 10d for both pitches. The first one was mine, slow climbing trying to piece it all together (not used to the rock/geometry, pretty intriguing). Luckily, there are great hand and foot holds everywhere, and with some patience it all goes well.

Second pitch looks hard from below, but there are always great hands and easy stemming.

I think the rock quality on this one is a wee over-stated. The rock was OK and sometimes good, but I wouldn't call it solid and frequently brilliant by any stretch of the imagination.

By Harald Harb
From: Dumont
Oct 16, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Got in "Miner's Delight" today before the weather change. Diana and I loved this route, we have done several on RA, and not one climb has disappointed.

Richard and Mark deserve lots of credit for putting up these climbs, all the climbs on RA are some of the best in Colorado, and many are three pitches of great climbing. If you can climb "Curvaceous", on "Wall of the Nineties", you are ready for "Miner's Delight". A little more hiking, but well worth every step.

The lower pitch is perfect, a hold every where you need one. If you climb Rifle, it goes 5.10d or maybe 5.11-. If you climb Clear Creek, it's goes 5.11b.
But these climbs/pitches are longer, so more endurance is required, or the pump, legs and arms, will get you.