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Lower Major Mass
Routes Sorted
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Archeopteryx T,TR 
Archway Cookie T,TR 
Blue Slab T,TR 
Cat Fight T,TR 
Cat Walk T,TR 
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 
Congestion Chimney T,TR 
Cookie Cutter T,TR 
Cookie Cutter Direct TR 
Crimps and Misdemeanors T,TR 
Dippy Diagonal T,TR 
Dippy Diagonal Variation Right (AKA the Dipster) T,TR 
Earnings Summary T,TR 
Goodbye Youth T 
Innocence T,TR 
Kenosis T,TR 
King's Corner T,TR 
Left Face of TM Overhang T,TR 
Loco Head T,TR 
Mental Block TR 
Microwave Dinner T,TR 
Mindless Dribble TR 
No Rest For the Wicked T,TR 
Puffs Plus T,TR 
Red Slab T,TR 
Seventh Buttress 1 T,TR 
Seventh Buttress 2 T,TR 
Seventh Buttress 3 T,TR 
Seventh Buttress 4 T,TR 
Seventh Buttress 5 T,TR 
Seventh Buttress 5-1/2 T 
Seventh Buttress 6 T,TR 
Sure Shot TR 
TM Overhang T,TR 
West Michigan T,TR 
Wicker Man T,TR 

Mindless Dribble 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  TR
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 47
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Apr 6, 2002

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Steve Z. onsight lead of Mindless Dribble 4-28-13.


Mindless Dribble is located on the large rounded buttress between the Red Slab and the Keyhole on the lower band of the Major Mass. Start by climbing up a steep 10-foot "chimney" onto a ledge. Once above the chimney climb another 10-foot wall using the corner and crack to the left of the corner. From here go slightly left towards a pine tree. Climb up this face using small face holds and a few larger ledges. Above this area you come to a slabby face with more small crimp holds. Climb the slab to a good-sized ledge about 25 feet from the top. Above this ledge there is a small overhung pocket. Traverse right about 10 feet to an easier crack/dihedral. Once above the dihedral you'll be on another ledge. From here either go straight up under a good sized "horn" or move back to the left and follow a crack up around the left side of the horn. The last move, regardless of your final approach, is a tricky mantel onto a block above the horn.


Top rope To set up the TR for this climb hike up the gully between the Major Mass and Minor Mass. Near the top of the gully (about 20 yards from the top) head west (left) and climb through a small saddle (4th class) and onto the upper-band ledge, a nice wide ledge used to access the upper band of the Major Mass (In Swartling's book this ledge is located above the area labeled "Angel's Traverse"). Continue west a few yards past the saddle, then turn left again to face south. You will see the top of a rounded buttress with lots of shrubs. If you step over a large fallen pine tree you've gone too far. This pine tree is laying down on the buttress you're looking for. Use two good sized trees and a nice crack to build your anchor. The anchor should hang directly south off the buttress. This is a nice long climb, so use a 60 meter rope.

Photos of Mindless Dribble Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climb this instead of the way the book describes M...
BETA PHOTO: Climb this instead of the way the book describes M...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mindless Dribble (68), Access Couloiur (65), and C...
BETA PHOTO: Mindless Dribble (68), Access Couloiur (65), and C...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down upon Dylan Colon as he seconds "...
Looking down upon Dylan Colon as he seconds "...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mindless Dribble (68), Congestion Chimney (69), In...
BETA PHOTO: Mindless Dribble (68), Congestion Chimney (69), In...

Comments on Mindless Dribble Add Comment
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By Burt Lindquist
From: Madison, WI
Jul 14, 2011

Has anybody ever lead "Mindless Dribble"? This has been on my mind lately... hence the name I am thinking.
By Tradoholic
Jul 14, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I think I actually lead this as a second pitch after Dippy Diagonal once. After topping out DD I climbed up a bit then back down into a gully and then straight up this thing. I remember a rest left of the crack and then I went back right to finish.
By Tradoholic
Jul 14, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Check out this pic: mountainproject.com/v/10650796...

Am I at the top of Mindless Dribble?
By Burt Lindquist
From: Madison, WI
Jul 14, 2011

Yup. It makes sense to do it that way. It is quite easy to work over to the upper part of MD route from the top od DD. From way down below the actuall route itself it is kind of hard to tell where to climb best with the most gear options. Was there gear opportunities on the upper corner of "Mindless Dribble"? All mindless dribble I know but I wanna know?
By Tradoholic
Jul 14, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Yea, it was years ago but the gear was ok, albeit wondering.
By Tradoholic
Sep 24, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

As described by Sven this route ends left and is the worst route I've been on in awhile. As described above it ends right and is still pretty bad. I suggest climbing up the access gully on the right and climbing "Mindless Dribble" as the short crack system 2/3 of the way up. I will post a pic.

I.E. avoid the slab feature with the horizontal cracks.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
May 15, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Traversing into this after Dippy is awesome. I was shocked at how good this climb ended up being, and it makes a perfect second pitch in the link-up.
Does anyone know what the headwall directly to the right of the cedar tree at the top of this is? You start in a little alcove and reach a ledge about half way. Then you can choose from two splitter cracks to top-out. The Crypt is to the left.
By Burt Lindquist
From: Madison, WI
May 16, 2013

Hey Adam. You have discovered a neat little Major Mass secret. A multi-pitch fun outing it is and the second pitch choice of "Mindless Dribble" is the best. Super fun, exposed, and well protected climbing. The rock has some great features on this pitch. I couldn't believe a few years ago when I first climbed it on-sight on lead and then discovered it wasn't even entered as a route in the 3rd Ed CGTDL! To be truthful the name was high jacked from CGTDL but the description in the guide sucks and the actual climb indicated in the guide sucks too... The whole handling of this buttress in the 3rd Ed kind of blows and I don't understand the Angel Traverse thing at all. I kind of shuuned the guide in the case of the "Mindeless Dribble" entry and went ahead and gave this much better climb the moniker. Rhoads was actually the first to point it out. The climbs you are asking out at the bluff top are routes 9 and 10 page 150 of the guide book and only route 10 is named ("The Three Kings" 5.7). Route 9 is graded 5.2 and that is a sandbag.. It's a good climb on lead and maybe closer to 5.5. Photo of Mike Sohasky leading route 9 on-sight. The third pitch of our little multi-pitch outing he and I had at Major Mass a week or so ago. If you want a real challenge... lead "Hidden Wall"
route 17 page 150 over by the The Crypt. It's thin, it's heady, it's pretty burly for 5.8!
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Sohasky leading route 9 page 150 of CGTDL as ...
Mike Sohasky leading route 9 page 150 of CGTDL as third pitch of neat little multi-pitch outing at Major Mass.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
May 16, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Burt, you are the man! I figured if I asked, someone like you would know the answer. The picture above is exactly what I was talking about. And I agree the guide is really screwy with this area, and it can be very difficult to tell what is what unless you just go up and climb it. Thanks for the help.
By Doug Hemken
Jul 22, 2013

Nice moves! And gear in your face through the crux! Take small nuts and cams in the 1/4 to 1/2 inch range.

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