Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Mind Shaft Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Mind Shaft Crack Left T 
Mind Shaft Crack Middle T 
Mind Shaft Crack Right T,TR 
Unknown (Mine Shaft Roof) T 

Mind Shaft Crack Middle 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 59
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jul 3, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Deb at the crux finger jams.

2016 Seasonal Raptor Closures - Eagle Rock remains closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Although this route is short, it's a nice crack climb with excellent rock. Footholds on the face to the right are quite sparse, so effective jamming is crucial. The crux is doing exit moves when the crack thins down after the last hand jam. This route is shown in the D'Antonio guidebook, where it is given the very incorrect rating of 5.7+.

Location 

This route is in the middle of the cliff. A splitter crack starts straight, angles right, and then straightens out at the top.

Protection 

I used a medium stopper, and then a gold, red, and green Camalot. Bring gear for the anchor.


Photos of Mind Shaft Crack Middle Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The crack.
BETA PHOTO: The crack.

Comments on Mind Shaft Crack Middle Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dave Holliday
Apr 4, 2016

I'd like to get some of whatever it was that Bob D was smoking when he rated this 7+ in his guidebook.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!