Mind Over Matter
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This is another good top rope problem between [Rincon] and [Five Ten Crack]. It crosses a small overlap about twenty feet up and takes a seam to a ledge. The crux is right past the overlap, insecure face climbing, the "5.10" seam above is more like .11a/b, this route [doesn't] get led much for obvious reasons, yet is a great toprope, it also feels quite a bit harder than [Raccoon Soup] maybe in the 11d/12a range.
Didn't check out the pro on this one, there might be some in the overlap, but it would suck, the seam above might take some rp's, but of course that's after the crux.
Onsight = Satchel therapy?
By Anonymous Coward
Dec 18, 2002
The climbing up to the overlap is positive and probably not harder than 5.10a; there is no protection, however. At the overlap, a crafty, well-seasoned Eldo climber with a double set of RP/HB brass nuts could find adequate protection for the next few moves, the crux (perhaps 5.11b). The upper seam has some decent gear, is a bit lichenous, slabby, delicate, and feels somewhat insecure, 5.11a, at least on the lead. An excellent lead by Ed Webster in 1983.