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Talus Food 

Mind Blow 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b R

   
Type: Trad, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Dave Houser, Jim Downs: 1972
Page Views: 2,262
Submitted By: Vince Romney on Jul 20, 2004
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Kim Miller leading with a fine swiss watch, Mark W...

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Description 

Mind Blow is two pitches; the first pitch contains the .10d crux, and ends after you roll up onto the lower-angled slab above the lip (use small- to medium-sized nuts or cams to set up a gear belay in the groves/cracks leading to The Hook).

The second pitch (.9) moves up past two bolts and ends at the belay at the base of The Hook. Rap 80' from here to the pitch one anchors for Bushwhack Crack, then about the same to the ground.

This line was drilled by hand on lead.


Protection 

0.2" to 1" cracks & bolts


Location 

Starts about fifty feet west of Bushwhack Crack.

To the left of Bushwhack Crack is a set of grooves that become a hollow-sounding flake system, and then transition into a tree-filled groove. This is Mind Blow.



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By Vince Romney
Jul 20, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Killer route! The moves just prior to the lip are sweet. Just barely enough bolts, definitely LCC style. Do this, then go do Paranoia Streak.

By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 20, 2004

Where is it? How many pitches? Descent?

By Nathan Fisher
Aug 11, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Clarification on the location of the beginning of the route. Schoolroom Direct climbs a nice finger crack. Right of Schoolroom Direct is a vegetated corner leading to a diagonalling flake. This is The Great Ripoff. Right of this is a set of grooves that become a hollow sounding flake system, and then transitions into a tree filled groove. This is Mind Blow. Next crack is Bushwhack Crack. The tree hurts the route but not enough to drop it down to 2 stars. Once past the easy crack, you will find three tightly spaced bolts that protect consistently hard face/slab work. Pull the lip and the climbing eases, but so does the rate of bolts. Do it one pitch and end at the base of the Hook.Also, on the easier upper face, you can use a yellow Metolius to protect the crack before the 1st bolt (above lip), the 4th bolt overall. Finally, what makes this climb so great IMO, is you have a decent crack sequence, followed by well protected hard face climbing (the physical crux), and then you get easier, but runout climbing above that (the mental crux). If you don't find the yellow Metolius placement and you pitch off making that move before the 4th bolt, you are in serious trouble.

Have fun!!!

By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

one of the times i did this one there was blasting going on in the boulder field below. sure enough as i was pullin through the crux "KAPOW!!!" scared me right off the wall.

By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
May 21, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13

This route will blow your mind! So glad I pushed myself to finally get on it...

By d-know
From: electric lady land
May 23, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

did this one again
the other day and noticed
the nuts on the first
2 bolts are only threaded
on halfway, esp. the
one at the crux.

By John Steiger
Sep 9, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R

My partner (J Fowler) ran into a wasps' nest maybe 20' off the deck, so he came back down and instead led Bushwhack Crack to just below the first tree, then moved left clipping the third bolt of Talus Food to access the crux slab of Mind Blow and the pants-filling runout above (I'm glad I was following). This is a much better start that the original, IMO; it avoids the initial funk and vegetation, making this a truly great pitch.

By Pete Spri
Sep 30, 2011

I'm not sure how this route is getting 4 stars. It's good, but it's not amazing.

Insipient cracks lead to a hollow flake with a couple brick-sized holds that are ready to come off. Pull through this to a heavily vegetated section that you must bypass to the right. Finally, enter the slab climbing on interesting dishy and rail type features. A couple space out bolts, but all well placed at decent stances. Crux is at the seam/crack just near the lip. Interesting and fun sequence climbing past the bolt and over the lip to easy ground.

Overall, a good route, but not continuously interesting or unique enough to earn it more than 2 stars, imo.

By zoso
Sep 30, 2011

OK, 1 more vote for 4 stars then.

By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Mar 11, 2012

I would recommend a rack to 2". Especially if linking to the bottom of the hook.