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Mind Bender Direct 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: FA: possibly unknown, fixed pitons found in lower half FA(finish on Golden Book): Casey Newman, Mike Heintz, 12/1975 FA(finish on Cat-o'Nine-Tails):
Page Views: 1,580
Submitted By: Jim O'Brien on Jun 12, 2007

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Mind Bender left, Golden Book Right corner

Description 

Climb the slab to a right facing corner, over steep blocks to the large block about 3/4 up. Work your way through the block to the roof, reach up and over and claw your way up for an exciting finish.

Location 

Right facing corner / left of Golden Book.

Protection 

Fixed gear missing, large cams to protect the roof.


Photos of Mind Bender Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mind bender follows the center of the slab to the ...
BETA PHOTO: Mind bender follows the center of the slab to the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: working the overlaps back in 2009
working the overlaps back in 2009

Comments on Mind Bender Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eric Greene
Oct 22, 2008

I think the route is much better when started in the corner just to the left of the slab, but the way above is how the route is presented in guidebooks.
By Clint Cummins
From: Palo Alto, CA
May 4, 2009

FA: possibly unknown, fixed pitons found in lower half
FA(finish on Golden Book): Casey Newman, Mike Heintz, 12/1975
FA(finish on Cat-o'Nine-Tails): Al Long, Sam Streibert, 5/1976
FA(direct finish): Ken Nichols, Garry Waltman, 5/1983
By Leif
Apr 7, 2013

good lead. Roof protects with #4 BD. Follow the crack from left to right as it changes corners to start. Dont waste your time with the slab start.
By farkas.time
From: Storrs, CT
Jun 13, 2016
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

agree start left of slab in 5.8ish Pegasus-like corner. Way fun. Crux is gaining short slabby section after vertical about 1/2 way up. Gear is thin thereafter. I found the #4 Camalot (under roof), small wires, and micro cams crucial for protection through the second half. The roof is thrilling at 5.8 or so.

Achoring at the top was a pain -- scope it out first. I used a tree 30' to climbers right and the Pegasus boulder.

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