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Bladdimir and the Ost 
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Minas Morgul 
Tower One 

Minas Morgul 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Arjun Heimsath and David Sampson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 90
Submitted By: arjunmh on Apr 23, 2013
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Arjun working on the rap anchor after his bold gro...

Description 

Begin in the wide, somewhat crumbly crack that leads to a right leaning crack that leads to a short face section beneath the roof on the north face. Cross under the roof to the right and face climb on good rock past ample protection to the broken vertical crack to the top. Gear belay from a comfortable ledge. Then, belay your partner to the rap anchors which are placed on the north face directly above the beautiful arete that faces Proto Pipe. We will develop the arete and other cracks below the rap anchors soon.

Rap anchors have quick links and chain links in place.


Location 

Uphill from Tower One, it can be accessed by going up the gully directly uphill and slightly north. This tower shows up nicely in the area photo.


Protection 

Double rack of cams to #4. If you have 2 #4's you can use one at the base and one at the top to protect the final crack, though neither are absolutely necessary as there are options (the ground up FA was done without them, but they'd be comforting).



Photos of Minas Morgul Slideshow Add Photo
Begin in the awkward crack to the left of the lichen covered rock, leading to the right leaning crack.
Begin in the awkward crack to the left of the lich...
DAS coming up! A BD #4 would've been nicer than the BD 0.3 below my foot.
DAS coming up! A BD #4 would've been nicer t...
Continue up this right leaning crack heading towards the roof above.
Continue up this right leaning crack heading towar...
DAS at the rap anchor, which is not the top of the climb that is to the right.
DAS at the rap anchor, which is not the top of the...
Face to base of the roof, crossing under the roof to the right.
Face to base of the roof, crossing under the roof ...
The view to "Proto Pipe" and the south side of the "Pipe Cleaner" tower.
The view to "Proto Pipe" and the south side of the...
After crossing under the roof to the right continue to the top.
After crossing under the roof to the right continu...
Route topo not showing the lower crack part.
Route topo not showing the lower crack part.
Comments on Minas Morgul Add Comment
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By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 23, 2013

Yeah Arjun and David!!!! This tower looks terrific!