Millstone Edge Rock Climbing
Setting sun viewed from Milestone Edge
Millstone Edge is a remarkable venue for climbing. Unlike many of the other edges Millstone is an old quarry, and the rock features left by the quarrymen are very striking.
The rock is generally of excellent quality, although the top outs for some of the routes need caution as the steep slopes above the cliff can be sandy in places.
The cliff faces west, dries quickly after rain and is easy to reach.
From Hathersage head East on the A6187, after about 1 mile the road follows sharply round to the left. Park up either on the left before the turn or shortly after in the cap park.
Follow the track (just to the west of the sharp turn) heading North. You'll soon arrive at the first area.
Climbing Season For the The Peak District area.
Weather station 8.8 miles from here
23 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Millstone Edge
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Millstone Edge:
Featured Route For Millstone Edge
Coventry Street 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
: United Kingdom
: ... : Keyhole Cave Area
Climb directly up the crack with good solid finger jams directly up to gain a good rest 15 below the cave. The next section up to the roof is the technical crux.On increasingly difficult finger jams make progress until possible to grab the good lip on the cave.From here standup, and climb the sandy cave until a difficult move at the roof allows you to dynamically get established on the head wall above the cave. The finishing moves are easier, but they feel decidedly airy, as you make your wa...[more] Browse More Classics in International
Latest Regional Forum Messages
By the professor
Aug 12, 2013
It might be useful for newcomers to note the easiest climber's access. Park in the large lot at the top (one must buy a parking ticket from dispenser---it takes only credit cards). Walk east on the main trail about 100 meters or so, staying left at all junctions, to find the first and lowest viewpoint. This has a stone fence. Step over the fence and follow it right and down the obvious draw which leads to the Entrance Bay (has some small and insignificant climbs laced with brush).
Do NOT follow the main path up the hill and parallel to the stone wall. This is a hill walker's trail that skirts the top of Millstone Edge and continues for miles beyond.