Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Mills Peak

Select Area...
Crack Shack 
Meth Lab 

Mills Peak  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.7047, -120.6234 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,487
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Daniel Seeliger on Jun 29, 2012
Forecast:
Sun Mon Tue Wed Thu
Partly Cloudy
45° | 22°
Clear
46° | 26°
Clear
53° | 30°
Partly Cloudy
55° | 28°
Partly Cloudy
50° | 26°
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: 7. Side Effects 5.13a 15 m Climb the slightly ov...

Description 

There are two main areas at Mills Peak: Crack Shack and the Meth Lab. Al Swanson and Larry Senya opened the first routes here in 2000 and labeled the crag the Meth Lab for its hidden aspect. In 2011, Daniel Seeliger developed the cracks and face below the lookout and maintained the theme by naming it the Crack Shack. The rock is composed of Metamorphic Gneiss, the same as most of the Lake Basin and Sierra Buttes area.

This is also the trailhead for the Mills Peak downhill and makes a great day to combine climbing with a classic downhill mountain bike ride to Graeagle.

Crack Shack
This 70-to-80-meter wall at Mills Peak stands just below and east of the lookout tower. Routes include short three pitch routes and good cragging along its base. Most routes follow distinct cracks to anchors where you can set up to top rope or continue for one or two more pitches to top. Although itís mostly prominent cracks, there are a few very nice sport routes. The wall gets early morning sun and gradually moves into the shade.

These routes are new, barely climbed and the wall has lots of lichen. Donít whine and contrast it to Donner or Yosemite, just help make it cleaner and nicer for the next. Scrub it off with your hand or a brush. Even though thereís been much cleaning already, many details still need your help.

See photos for topos of routes.

Meth Lab
Nearly 10 short sport routes climb vertical-to-slightly-overhanging face between and around giant blocks just northwest from the lookout. The base provides somewhat flat and shady, forested area, especially nice during hot temps.

Getting There 

No matter what direction you head in from, get on the Gold Lake Highway. Mills Peak turn off is signed and located only a mile south and uphill from Gold Lake. Turn off the GL Hwy. on to a gravel road heading east. Less than a mile, turn left at a signed junction. From here follow the main road to its end, and park at the lookout tower parking. Low clearance vehicles can make it but can opt to park just before getting to the ridge line and a slighly bumpier road, one quarter mile before the lookout.

Crack Shack Approach: 15 min. Find a faint trail just northwest of the parking that heads down a gully just north of the tower. The trail heads down and gradually around to the right. Look for cairns and orange tags. If you climb the entire wall, you can walk back up to the parking or walk back down traversing below the Boulder Tower to gain the approach trail.

Meth Lab Approach. 8 min. The Meth Lab sits just northwest and downhill from the lookout parking. Hike 100 meters up a faint trail that ascends between two rocky peaks northwest of the parking. Walk down and right through large rocks and talus to the northern side of the giant blocks.

Climbing Season



Weather station 9.6 miles from here

4 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Mills Peak

Mills Dihedral Left 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Crack Shack
3. Mills Dihedral Left (M. D. L.) 5.10c 85 m 1p: 5.9, 30 m. Starting at the very bottom of the wall, follow the obvious left facing dihedral to anchor. 5.8 if you donít do direct start. Confident climbers can run this together with pitch 2. 2p: 5.10b or 5.11 variation, 15 m. Short pitch. Climb up into an under-cling crack and then reach over roof to a jug and mantle (5.10b) or climb up and left from anchor to a longer, harder hand-crack version of the roof (5.11). Mount either version and traver...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Local Information for Mills Peak
Photos of Mills Peak Slideshow Add Photo
1. Primos 5.10b, 20 m Follow the far left side of ...
BETA PHOTO: 1. Primos 5.10b, 20 m Follow the far left side of ...
Patrick Mulligan finishing the last pitch of Finge...
Patrick Mulligan finishing the last pitch of Finge...

Comments on Mills Peak Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -