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 ADVANCED
The Millstone
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Against the Establishment 
Angle of Repose 
Blockbuster 
Bush Doctor 
Calling All Karmas 
Cat Juggling 
Earthling 
Eraserhead 
Intelligient Life Form 
Lead Balloon 
Maize, The 
Miller Time 
Milling About 
Millstone Slab 
Moon Walk 
Odd Get Even, The 
Pencilneck 
Personal Jesus 
Private Hell 
Stick Figure Stays Home 
Stone Ground 
Strong Arm With the Lads 
Tie Die 
Yuppie Love 

Milling About 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Gary Olsen, 1987
Page Views: 191
Submitted By: John Steiger on Aug 28, 2012
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Description 

Yeah, go ahead and lug the cams up, this route is worth it – an unusual (for BCC), two-part right-facing dihedral with a sweet fingers-to-thin-hands crack in the back. From the ground, either climb a somewhat licheny face to gain the ledge from which the first part of the dihedral begins, or – maybe better – start up Eraserhead (clipping its first bolt) and step right to the first part of the dihedral. One of the first routes put up on The Millstone. Ruckmans: “Strenuous and Canyonlands-esque.”


Location 

Between Eraserhead to the left and Personal Jesus to the right.


Protection 

Double set of cams from thin fingers to thin hands, and maybe a few similar-sized nuts. Rap or lower from the anchors for Eraserhead (two bolts equipped with slings — in good condition as of this writing, but consider doing a public service and bring chains to install).



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By grk10vq
Administrator
Aug 29, 2012

Some may want to spare the weight and only bring a single set of cams from .3 - #2
just sayin...

By John Steiger
Aug 29, 2012

Us old guys get scared easily.