Milling About  5.11b

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Type:  Trad, 60 feet Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  Stuart Ruckman, Gary Olsen, 1987 Submitted By:  John Steiger on Aug 28, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Yeah, go ahead and lug the cams up, this route is worth it – an unusual (for BCC), two-part right-facing dihedral with a sweet fingers-to-thin-hands crack in the back. From the ground, either climb a somewhat licheny face to gain the ledge from which the first part of the dihedral begins, or – maybe better – start up Eraserhead (clipping its first bolt) and step right to the first part of the dihedral. One of the first routes put up on The Millstone. Ruckmans: “Strenuous and Canyonlands-esque.”

Location 

Between Eraserhead to the left and Personal Jesus to the right.

Protection 

Double set of cams from thin fingers to thin hands, and maybe a few similar-sized nuts. Rap or lower from the anchors for Eraserhead (two bolts equipped with slings — in good condition as of this writing, but consider doing a public service and bring chains to install).