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The Millstone
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Miller Time 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Haisely, Keith Maas 1989
Page Views: 779
Submitted By: Matt Barrigar on Aug 8, 2004
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Description 

This is the next climb up from the big 5.9 flake, about midway up the wall. The climb is well bolted with no runouts, except for the very easy top portion. The climb is really pumpy, with a few technical moves at about the fifth bolt. Really fun. Somebody should consider adding some chains at the top.


Protection 

Bring six draws for the climb. The anchor is a tree at the top with fixed slings around it. Use these or bring your own if you don't trust them. The tree is about twenty feet back from the edge, so there is quite a bit of drag.



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By Spencer Anderson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 14, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Questionable bolt placements (the first in particular) and hideous rope drag makes this route needlessly frustrating.

By BobGray
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 8, 2006

Rope drag isn't bad if you bring a long draw or runner, but the anchors are horrible. I WILL NOT repeat this route until the dead tree anchor is replaced. Only those with a death wish would tempt fate by using that tree as an anchor. Otherwise it would be a quality route.

By Price
From: SLC, UT
Jun 2, 2008

The tree anchor was replaced with ring anchors by A. Meyer in 2007.

By Daryn Edmunds
Aug 6, 2010

Great route! This thing will mess up most 5.10c leaders. It is stout in the middle. Give er

By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Jul 28, 2012

"well bolted"? Bull crap. First bolt is way off the deck, maybe 20 feet? Bring a few cams if you don't feel like grounding out. The next 4 bolts are all way spaced. The climbing is good, but bad bolting.

By MarkJ
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 20, 2012

Continuous and committing. Bring a #2 and #.4-.5 to protect before the first bolt. I experienced no rope drag. The bolts are widely spaced by modern standards, but this is not a dangerous climb, just a little spicy. Chain anchor at the top.