Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Tatooine
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Force, The S 
Hyperspace S 
Jawa Jam S 
Leia Needs A Lightsaber S 
Leia's Leash S 
Midichlorophobia S 
Millennium Falcon S 
Phantom Menace, The S 
Scum and Villainy S 
Spaceballs S 
Star Destroyer S 
That's Not A Lightsaber S 
This Is A Lightsaber! S 
Triumphal Arch S 

Millennium Falcon 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Darren Knezek
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,105
Submitted By: Darren Knezek on Apr 25, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The Millennium Falcon would always attack! Just as...

Description 

Millennium Falcon climbs the face to the right of the arch. Extremely technical on beautiful rock. The first crux comes quickly at the 2nd bolt a bulge with no feet. The after two more bolts another even more difficult crux. Just remember: You're a dancer not a climber through this section. Finally, more fun movement to a balancey move near the anchors.

Location 

To the right of the arch

Protection 

7 bolts plus chains.


Photos of Millennium Falcon Slideshow Add Photo
This one stays tricky all the way up to the end...
This one stays tricky all the way up to the end...
My best Millennium Falcon pose.
My best Millennium Falcon pose.

Comments on Millennium Falcon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Apr 25, 2009

Just a tiny bit soft for the greade, but still very high quality nonetheless. Lots of foot trickery get you through several difficult sections including one right at the second bolt. While you hands are on pretty darn good holds (often hard to see; very typical for the galaxy area) your feet are on much smaller ones. Often a big highstep is required. I really like routes that are not just all brawn but that take some thought.
By darrell hodges
Apr 26, 2009

Good handholds throughout. Sequencey and balancey at times.
Great route! Worth the trip to do it.
By Bad Sock Puppet
May 22, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This one onsighted, I did. Have to agree with Christian, I would, like a 5.10d the route feels when you know where the holds are hiding. Between the 4th and 5th bolts, the crux it appears is. Pretty solid, the rock is, but want to fall on against sharp mineral deposits making it something you would not. The difficult part on this one, the feet are.
By Aimee Bates
Jun 23, 2009
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This route was really fun with great movement. I found plenty hands and feet all the way up. I agree there is some tricky footwork, and a few balancy moves. I wonder how long that really sharp two finger hold in the middle of the route will last : ) That missing could make things a bit harder!