Millennium Falcon climbs the face to the right of the arch. Extremely technical on beautiful rock. The first crux comes quickly at the 2nd bolt a bulge with no feet. The after two more bolts another even more difficult crux. Just remember: You're a dancer not a climber through this section. Finally, more fun movement to a balancey move near the anchors.
To the right of the arch
7 bolts plus chains.
This one stays tricky all the way up to the end...
My best Millennium Falcon pose.
|Comments on Millennium Falcon
|By Christian "crisco" Burrell|
From: PG, Utah
Apr 25, 2009
Just a tiny bit soft for the greade, but still very high quality nonetheless. Lots of foot trickery get you through several difficult sections including one right at the second bolt. While you hands are on pretty darn good holds (often hard to see; very typical for the galaxy area) your feet are on much smaller ones. Often a big highstep is required. I really like routes that are not just all brawn but that take some thought.
|By darrell hodges|
Apr 26, 2009
Good handholds throughout. Sequencey and balancey at times.
Great route! Worth the trip to do it.
|By Bad Sock Puppet|
May 22, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
This one onsighted, I did. Have to agree with Christian, I would, like a 5.10d the route feels when you know where the holds are hiding. Between the 4th and 5th bolts, the crux it appears is. Pretty solid, the rock is, but want to fall on against sharp mineral deposits making it something you would not. The difficult part on this one, the feet are.
|By Aimee Bates|
Jun 23, 2009
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
This route was really fun with great movement. I found plenty hands and feet all the way up. I agree there is some tricky footwork, and a few balancy moves. I wonder how long that really sharp two finger hold in the middle of the route will last : ) That missing could make things a bit harder!