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This is a face route just right of R2-D2. Look up the route and you can see a rock formation that looks kind of like the famous freighter from Star Wars. Slabby start to the first bolt, then interesting face moves to the chains. This is probably the same route that Squeezing the Lemmon calls "R-Senio 5.7X" that Scott Ayers originally soloed in 1991. Bolted circa 1999 by Ben Burnham. Call it what you will, it is worth climbing if you are in the area looking for a shady moderate lead.
Bolts, Chain anchor
|By Boodge Nomchompski|
Oct 26, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13
Even as someone who climbs both sport and trad, I am hard-pressed to call this a sport climb. One can hardly argue that 4 bolts in 70 feet (3 in the first 30 feet, 1 in the last 40) is in-line with today's definition of "sport climbing." Put a fledgeling 5.7+ sport leader on this and you're asking for trouble. That being said, this route is perfectly safe if you carry a couple of medium pieces (I used a purple camalot after the last bolt). With no additional gear, a fall trying to surmount the last bulgy section would be an ankle breaker at best.