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Millenium Falcon 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ed Esmond
Page Views: 5,897
Submitted By: Jen Lloyd on Sep 5, 2007
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Adam starting the fun climbing in the corner.

Description 

Every time I climb this route I am ecstatic to have discovered it again. It's so good you can't even remember how good it is until you're back on it. Start upward after a small tree stump left of the belay bolt to a good stance below a vertical section, the crux of the route. Here a good sequence goes a long way. Get a good rest (which involves using your head--physically) then move up toward a mantel on big holds. The mantel can be scary, but is safe. Get another good rest then pull over the lip for a fun, technical bit of climbing to the top.


Location 

A tricky one to approach but well worth it.
From the raised ledge at Main Cliff walk all the way left past the start of The Skewer until there is an 8ft drop off to another ledge. Down climb or do a short lower off from the single eye bolt. Once on the lower ledge walk about 15 feet left to a 2 bolt anchor below the climb.

There are other options:
-You may traverse left from the eye bolt on the main ledge past Gunboat Diplomacy and in to Millenium but i find this awkward.

-You may also do one of the newly added routes on the far right side of the Armed and Dangerous wall and top out on to the ledge below Millenium from there.


Protection 

12 bolts to 2 bolt anchor



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 25, 2013
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 18, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Protection: Very frequently bolted, I skipped many of the bolts because I could reach the next one form the same stance. It would be awesome it you were looking to break into 5.10c.

11 bolts (some eyebolts, some normal hangers) 1 piton (in a terrible loose block, skip it if you feel comfy)

Quick Clips for anchors.

Careful pulling your rope, mine got twisted something fierce and I had to climb it again to get it unstuck (1st time for everything).

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 18, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

My new favorite 5.10 at rumney.

Sorry Lonesome Dove

By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Sep 29, 2008

Also, bring some extendable draws, they help with the rope drag...especially the first bolt. it might even be a good idea to clean the first bolt once you've clipped the second, and avoid the whole thing altogether.

but yeah...best 5.10 at rumney? definitely.

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Sep 25, 2010

Not sure why I waited so long to get on this... wow! Great climbing!

By S. Neoh
Jun 16, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Nice climb. I was surprised that I made a few hand jams on this route. The one I used for the middle crux was painful but solid.

We rapped off the low/start anchors at the end of the day. Be aware there are now (new) climbs below this set of anchors. I knocked some loose stuff off the short in-between section which is definitely still loose and dirty. You may want to double check for climbers below you before you drop rope and debris on top of them as you set up to rap.

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Sep 24, 2012

I was told that a fun alternate way to access this climb is by going up the Maltese Falcon. Has anyone tried this?

By S. Neoh
Sep 24, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Matt, I cannot recommend it without reservations. See my post above. I rapped over Maltese and there was a good band of loose vegetated stuff between the top anchor of Maltese and the lower (rap) anchor of Millenium. I do not suppose this band has been scrubbed and cleaned up the past 3 months.

By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Oct 12, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

I climbed it last weekend and thought it was mildly overrated. Sure it's a nice climb but IMO, is definitely not the best 5.10 in Rumney.

By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Mar 18, 2013

I had an awesome time on this the other day. I'd be hard pressed to think of a 5.10 that I have climbed that I have enjoyed more. Incredibly fun and varied climbing, it is much better when you are on it than it seems from the belay ledge. Unfortunately , I need to work on my crack skills before I can send this one. Hoping to knock this one out very soon.

To all the sport climbers like myself trying to get on all the 5.10s that you can, don't underestimate the need for crack skills on this one. It's just something you won't find much of outside the world of trad.

Climb this route! It's awesome!

By Eli Buzzell
From: Traveling with AmeriCorps
Oct 6, 2013

I'm pretty sure a microwave sized boulder just fell off of this route yesterday(10/5/2013). I don't know if it was on route or near it, but I was getting tossed around on Peanut Man when I heard about 30 people shout "Rock!" in a flock-of-gulls kind of way. Anyone know about this?

By JayMorse
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Oct 12, 2013

I climbed this route today (10/12/2013) and there were a lot of freshly broken, sharp pieces of rock on the ledge, many sitting precariously over the edge. Nothing too big, but they would hurt! I cleaned the ledge up pretty good and moved all the pieces back away from the edge, but I'd say keep an eye out for more that might be coming down. It was my first time doing the climb, but I didn't see or feel any rock of poor quality or anything loose up there.

Really amazing climb! One of the best I've done for sure! The beta was a little tricky to figure out, but once I got it down it flowed beautifully.

If you plan to set a toprope on this route, you'll want to extend the anchors, and replace draws with extendables and remove unnecessary draws on your way down. We used quickdraws on each bolt for our leads, and although the drag wasn't bad on the lead, it took a LOT of effort to pull the rope down from the quick clips. I don't think you'd want to do a top rope belay with all that friction. Think it through before coming down.

By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA
Oct 24, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

The "Location" section of the MP route description above describes the belay anchor (an eyebolt) being at the bottom of Gunboat Diplomacy, and climbers are encouraged to traverse to the left over some "chossy" rock to reach Millennium Falcon. Don't belay at this eyebolt. Instead, continue to walk about fifteen feet farther to the left (you will have to down-climb an eight-foot rocky shelf), and you will find two chest-high eyebolt belay anchors. These anchors are directly below Millennium Falcon.

In regard to the route, I was very much looking forward to climbing it as the guidebook (and this site) refer to it as being perhaps "the best 5.10 at Rumney." Well, it's not. I know that beauty is in the eye of the beholder (or the climber), but I agree with Dom from Brunswick who believes the climb is over-rated. There are a bunch of 5.10's that are more aesthetically and athletically pleasing, and follow more classic lines: The Dove, Armed & Dangerous, Ten o' Spades, Romancing, and Espresso, to name a few. (The first part of Millennium felt like I was climbing on fresh-quarried rock back in Quincy!)

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 24, 2013

i hadn't noticed that they said to traverse in to it... i will change the directions right now...

By S. Neoh
Oct 25, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

The said rocky shelf (more like 7 feet I think) is not bad to upclimb and downclimb. I wore rock shoes for the downclimb but a good approach shoe should suffice. Passing the rope up and down makes it a little less nervy.
To me, this is top 10 5.10 at Rumney. 3 out of 4 possible stars.