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Millcreek Canyon - New Routes?

Original Post
mKasner · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Went for a hike (will not disclose what trail) this evening and came upon what looks like a newly developed wall. Wall is to the climbers right of the trail. Fixed rope, buckets hidden...etc. Went to have a look and there were no red-tags hanging on the first bolts. Who can point me in the direction of with some info. PM me.

In case this area is still not published for various reasons, please PM me.

Charlie S · · NV · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 2,391

Based on the subforum you posted this on, are you talking about Mill Creek outside of SLC?

Good luck getting info on Millcreek outside of Moab. We "found" the trailhead and some walls a few months ago but info was impossible to come by, even when being nice to the locals. To be fair, they probably want to keep it a secret for the same reasons I'd rather have that brand new, shiny "Superbowl Campground" sign removed from Indian Creek.

mKasner · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Millcreek in SLC, not Moab. Figured I wouldn't get any answers from any locals that are bolting, just thought I would reach out before I head back up to take some burns :).

If there are not any red tags on the first bolt, I don't see any reason on not climbing on my own gear. Just wanted to ask permission to climb on what is currently hanging.

Austin Baird · · SLC, Utah · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 95

I've always thought that the Millcreek rock looked too chossy to be climbable. I'd be happy if I were wrong though!

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888

which trail is it off? there's some new hard stuff that was put up 1-2 yrs ago. Pretty sure everything's been sent at the banana crag (aka the henion).

Name · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 25

Can a topo be found for the banana crag aka henion? Or any other newish areas in Mill. Thanks.

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888

Most everything up there is in the mid to high 12 range with a couple 13's on the money section of the wall. There's one 11d, but it's probably more like 12a.

David LeBaron · · Grantsville,UT · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 932

Well said Fett. The routes are NOT fully cleaned at The Henion. It is obviously still in progress. If anyone is anxious to climb there, do so at your own risk and don't climb anything with fixed lines. Some of us don't red tag unless it us absolutely necessary ;).

mKasner · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

What is the grade of the first route you come up too when approaching from climbers left, or the trail. Looks like fun. Anchors up top?

David LeBaron · · Grantsville,UT · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 932

The first route, at this point in time,is 10.d. Its good. The next two routes to the right are mid 11's. The next two routes after that are 13's and are being projected, by the developers right now. The rest of the routes are harder than 12a.
There has been allot of water and allot of seeping. Even if it looks dry, you should keep an eye out for choss that had been softened by the extensive amount of recent wet days.

bus driver · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 1,516

Some newer routes in Millcreek Canyon since this thread.   

Jug Haul Wall has 5.8-5.11 and the open project could likely be sent in the 5.12 range. https://www.mountainproject.com/area/111966520/jug-haul-wall

Millcreek Monster is the furry beast low in the canyon that now sports a fun 5.9 multipitch Little Adventure.   https://www.mountainproject.com/route/113702924/a-little-adventure

chad zurinskas · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

glad to see there is some new route activity up millcreek in slc.  regarding the older posts, this crag is "the henion" or "banana belt".  it sits atop the burch hollow trail on the north side of the canyon.  you can approach the cliff from the pipeline trail starting at porters fork and go up canyon to the start of burch hollow or go down from elbow fork when the summer road is open.(a bike is a nice option for this option, but you still have to hike burch hollow)  it takes an hour or two to get there.  the crag is south facing so get an early start.  the rock is gently overhanging limestone.  all the starts are complete choss, but once on the routes the rock gets good.  there are 10 or so routes.  first 3 are .11s, the rest are .12s and low .13s.  feel free to go climb these routes. my only warning is the quickdraws are old need replacing 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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