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Millbrook is remote by Gunks' standards, but the "grueling" 40-minute hike rewards you with some of the best climbing the Gunks has to offer. Many consider it to be the Gunks' best cliff, but I think that depends on what you're looking for -- if it's fantastic views, no crowds, great climbing (although characteristically run out), a sense of commitment, and adventure in general, then you will not be disappointed. The wall is generally dead vertical, and the white quartzite that it is composed of yields a slightly different climbing experience than the Trapps or the Nears. Millbrook has more than 80 routes ranging in length from 130 to 200 feet.
Getting to Millbrook is tricky. You can begin from the 30-minute parking area just below the Near Trapps and follow the Ridge Trail all the way to the top of the cliff. There are also some other approaches which are faster, but require crossing private property or confusing route finding. It is highly advisable to make your first trip to Millbrook with someone who knows the way -- and who can find the rappel stations at the top of the cliff -- they are not immediately obvious.
5 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Millbrook
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Millbrook:
Westward Ha! 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Cruise Control 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Featured Route For Millbrook
Westward Ha! 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b NY : The Gunks : Millbrook
Westward Ha! is definitely one of the best 7's at the Gunks.This route is almost directly under the rap tree. This, in turn, is quite close to the carriage road that ends on top of Millbrook. This spot can be located by the place where the trail leaves the cliff edge and ascends a short rocky band to the road. Instead of going up, follow a climber's trail (past an ominous "go away" sign) for a couple hundred feet. The rap tree is not immediately at the edge - it's about 15' below and requires a ...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
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