BETA PHOTO: The dead Westward Ha pine that used to be the rap ...
Don't miss local climber Chris Fracchia's labor of love, Millbrook
, where he provides excellent topos, photos, and select route descriptions. Props, Chris!
Millbrook is remote by Gunks' standards, but the "grueling" 40-minute hike rewards you with some of the best climbing the Gunks has to offer. Many consider it to be the Gunks' best cliff, but I think that depends on what you're looking for -- if it's fantastic views, no crowds, great climbing (although characteristically run out), a sense of commitment, and adventure in general, then you will not be disappointed. The wall is generally dead vertical, and the white quartzite that it is composed of yields a slightly different climbing experience than the Trapps or the Nears. Millbrook has more than 80 routes ranging in length from 130 to 200 feet.
"The Bank" was the first cliff climbed in the Gunks, via "The Old Route," by Fritz Wiessner in 1935. It's rated 5.5 and I've heard it's pretty chossy, but Millbrook isn't for sissies after all. Other "must do's" include Westward Ha!
(5.7), Cruise Control (5.9), Time Eraser (10a), High Plains Drifter (10+), New Frontier (11-), and Nectar Vector (12+), along with a few others that, by tradition, aren't talked about too often. This is also the tallest cliff in the Gunks, and most routes are 1 to 3 pitches in length.
One interesting point to consider is that the climbs are typically approached via double-rope raps from above. This will not take you to the bottom of the cliff, but will instead land you on a "GT Ledge" of sorts. This ledge ranges from 2-20' wide, and the climbs begin from this point. If you traverse the entire length of this ledge you can escape from either side, but the best way to escape from Millbrook is to climb out -- you should plan for this. There are several rap station access points, but the most commonly used one, and most centrally located, is above "Westward Ha!" from a very large pine tree. Westward Ha! (5.7) is well-protected, solid, and makes for a great cool-down climb at the end of the day to exit the cliff. An efficient solution is to fix a line from the rap station, and just return to it after each climb. That way, if worse comes to worst, you could jug that line at the end of the day.
Getting to Millbrook is tricky. You can begin from the 30-minute parking area just below the Near Trapps and follow the Ridge Trail all the way to the top of the cliff. There are also some other approaches which are faster, but require crossing private property or confusing route finding. It is highly advisable to make your first trip to Millbrook with someone who knows the way -- and who can find the rappel stations at the top of the cliff -- they are not immediately obvious.
Climbing Season For the The Gunks area.
Weather station 3.0 miles from here
7 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Millbrook
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Millbrook
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Millbrook:
Featured Route For Millbrook
Cruise Control 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a NY
: The Gunks
Start 30 feet right of Westward Ha! on discontinuous left-facing corners and cracks beneath two small roofs. P1: Head up towards the crack in the middle part of the upper small roof, with a stemmy, technical crux over an old piece of tat. Traverse out right under the roof and up and over to belay in the right-facing corner. P2: Head up the corner through some foliage, and break left on to the face when you can, on face holds through a ...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
Gail rapping into Millbrook. Takes a single line....
Gail walking into Millbrook. It takes us about 80...
Gail flaking the rope on the "death" led...
By John Peterson
Feb 28, 2006
People can now approach Millbrook by the carriage road (either on bike or foot). This is definitely the fastest way in if you're on a bike. I've been told that Minnewaska rangers are OK with people carrying climbing gear as long as you tell them you're going to Millbrook. Finding the Westward Ha tree from there is also pretty easy since it's so close to the end of the road.
Nov 3, 2014
I got yelled at yesterday for returning to my car in the Lake Miniwaska parking lot at 5:55, the park signs clearly say it closes on 6:00PM in November. I was yelled at saying it closes at 5 and that climbing from the Miniwaska parking lot is not allowed. I may just have found a really disgruntled park worker. Consider getting back before sundown at least.