The climbing at mill creek is -for now- one large and extensive highball wall called the Hidden Highball Wall. The tall, vertical to slightly overhanging faces make for fun and exciting boulder climbs. The landing is flat, clean and free of obstructions. Some faces are featured and others basically blank. The holds are either ledges or crimps/crimp rails. The height ranges from the tapered far end at about 12 ft to the high points at 30. The access is easy, and the climbing is all within protected state park lands with no access issues (dont be the one to create them). The approach is down a short distance on a bike trail-head. find the obvious "marker" boulder on the right hand side of the bike trail, and curve around the boulder to the right and the ground drops off into the highball wall cliff band. ((Bring plenty of pads))
You will need all-wheel or 4-wheel drive to reach the parking for this area if it has rained recently. when driving to the park from hwy16, coming from Blacksburg, Raleigh, Morgantown, turn onto HWY 58 on your right (just past the "log house restaurant"), heading toward the main park. wind several miles up the 2 lane country road, and pass a small church to your left. after the church, pay attention and there will be a very sharp left hand curve ahead. where the road curves left, there will be a dirt/gravel road turning off to the right at the same spot, with a sign indicating Mill Creek. take the dirt road. follow this road to its end where you will see the parking and a sigh for Grayson Highlands State Park. if you are coming from Damascus, Abingdon, Bristol, Asheville, or beyond from the west; drive past the entrance to the park and through some severe switchback type curves to the base of the mountain. Look for the dirt/gravel road turning to the left with a sign saying "Mill Creek" and then follow this road to its end where you will see the parking and a sigh for Grayson Highlands State Park. Park and walk down the bike trail for a very short distance. notice the boulder on your right that is oddly perched just off of the trail. walk off the trail to the right, down and around the boulder to where the ground drops off for the Hidden Highball Wall.
(hang & drop)To the left of the black streak. Find the high jug crack line that runs horizontally across the upper portion of the face. Follow it to the middle of the face and as it dips down to its lowest point, follow a line down to the bottom. This is the boulder problem. Also look for two nice jug rails at about 8ft up. The line climbs between them and you use both.Below the two jug rails, either sit start or low start (whichever you like) on lower crimps. Work up into the twin jug rails, up...[more]Browse More Classics in VA