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Milky Way Wall
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Milky Way 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tristan Higbee and Christian Burrell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,268
Submitted By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Jul 12, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Myself on Milky Way.

Description 

The first route in the entire area. Follows the obvious white streak in the middle of the left side of the wall. A little flakey here and there. Not hard, but a bit inobvious and a good warmup.


Protection 

7 bolts and chains



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By Tristan Higbee
From: Thailand
Jul 12, 2008

Climbs the obvious water streak up the middle of the wall.

I bolted this route in November 2007. Then it got cold and snowy and we didn't redpoint it until late winter/early spring 08. The second half of the route generally climbs on the right side of the bolt line. Consistently good, fun climbing. No one part is "wow," but the whole thing is enjoyable.

We named it this because the water streak kinda looks like the Milky Way.

By Clay Allred
From: Moab UT
Jul 31, 2008

This route is super sick. Love it. Definitely a classic. Great route to hop on first thing.

By Darren Knezek
Apr 19, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Loved this climb. I gave it 4 stars as it keeps going and going all the way to the very end.

By aclimberdude
May 1, 2009

Cool route super wet right now, but good.

By Merl
Sep 26, 2010

This route is a must do if you are climbing in the 10a-10b range, and I know you jack-wagons are out there ( because I am card carrying member ). It's not a particularly demanding route in any one aspect, but provides a harmonious blend of solid holds, moves, and exposure. Be careful which features you use, as some of them are unnecessary and will readily break. When in doubt, look to the right.