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Roadside Crag (CLOSED)
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Milkin' the Chicken 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: M Williams, 1990
Season: Faces SW
Page Views: 313
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 11, 2006
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This climb was rated 5.11a in 1991, but I broke some holds off it in an early ascent as did many others. This has become harder due to those deteriorating holds. I suspect (hope) that the climb has become more stable, however.
Head up a few vertical moves to small holds and pull into a shallow dish. Sling a horn (chicken-head) and head up to the anchors on easier moves.


Take the right-hand fork of the approach trail to encounter this climb on your left as you first reach the cliff base. This is just left of the flat overhanging wall housing a row of more popular sport-climbs such as AWOL and Dragon Slayer.


A few draws and a sling for a chicken-head. There is a runout up top on easier ground to the anchors.

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