Milkin' the Chicken
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 1.4 from 5 votes
Type: | Trad, Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | M Williams, 1990 |
Page Views: | 1,044 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 11, 2006 |
Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Access Issue: Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit
Details
Please DO NOT climb at GFNP (Roadside) without a daily permit per climber in the group. After a long closure, access to Roadside was made possible again in March 2015 under the name Graining Fork Nature Preserve. This access is contingent upon climbers being good stewards and obtaining a daily permit via the GFNP website. grainingfork.org/ For the sake of the access privilege it is imperative that climbers follow this rule and obtain the daily permit.
Description
This climb was rated 5.11a in 1991, but I broke some holds off it in an early ascent as did many others. This has become harder due to those deteriorating holds. I suspect (hope) that the climb has become more stable, however.
Head up a few vertical moves to small holds and pull into a shallow dish. Sling a horn (chicken-head) and head up to the anchors on easier moves.
Head up a few vertical moves to small holds and pull into a shallow dish. Sling a horn (chicken-head) and head up to the anchors on easier moves.
Location
Take the right-hand fork of the approach trail to encounter this climb on your left as you first reach the cliff base. This is just left of the flat overhanging wall housing a row of more popular sport-climbs such as AWOL and Dragon Slayer.
Protection
A few draws and a sling for a chicken-head. There is a runout up top on easier ground to the anchors.
Permit Required
***Climbers MUST NOT climb at GFNP without a daily permit per person in each group.*** This route is privately owned and requires a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website.
This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges. Don't be selfish--get a permit.
This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges. Don't be selfish--get a permit.
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