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Near the top of the Milk Run corner.
Yet another Peter Croft and Tammy Knight tour-de-force. A devious couple of pitches take you to a spectacular corner system
P1. Climb the obvious path through the moss and bushes past some surprisingly tricky and committing moves until you emerge from the vegetation and the wall sweeps out to your left (5.7). You could belay here, but there's no reason not to carry on to the station for Rock Loggers rather than belaying from the forest. There are two choices for getting there. You can head straight up to the first bolt on Tantalus Wall and then aid left to a groove and downclimb the groove to the station. This presents difficulties for protecting the second on the traverse and the downclimb as the groove is overgrown and slick when wet. The other option is to immediately traverse straight out left on some bolts. This was wet so we opted for the groove, which was also wet and unpleasant.
P2. Head up the obvious left facing crack until it arches around to become an undercling. It apparently goes free at 11d, but is called 10c if you use the second and third bolt for aid. After the bolts it continues to head left and the holds appear to die out just before you reach the corner. The trick here is to downclimb about ten feet, then go left into the corner and back up to the station. (5.11d or 5.10c A0)
P3. This beautiful left facing corner has great locks, takes great pro and is one of the most sustained pitches of its grade around. (5.10b).
P4. The spectacular corner continues and is long and steep. (5.10d).
You can rappel here (double ropes), continue up Midnight Run
, or take a 5.8 pitch to join up with pitch 5 of Tantalus Wall
. You can also connect up with the start of Cerberus
Starts as for Tantalus wall. Essentially, walk right along the base of the Chief from Freeway, past a nice open area beside a slab with two prominent bolted dykes until the trail heads uphill and into a bit more vegetation. A cleared path up the wall is obvious.
Doubles of cams from finger to hand. Triples of the finger sizes (.3 through .75 Camalots) are great. Some micro cams (green C3 in our case) are key for P2. The corners take great nuts, but they're so sustained that plugging cams is much more convenient.
By Nick Sullens
From: Mt Shasta
Aug 17, 2010
P1 goes free at slab 11b
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 8, 2011
P2 in this description (11d traverse) was muddy and wet in spots making it pretty tough. The long dihedral can either be pitched out as one to the sweet ledge with bolted anchor and a tree, or you could link it straight through the rest of the dihedral, which would make it closer to 11- with pump factor. Linking would be a full 60m pitch. If you did that I'd take 3 or 4 of each yellow alien and .5 camalot size. There is a whole lot of fingers / off fingers on the two money pitches of this route. Those pitches are 5 stars for sure.