Milk Road  5.10d C0

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Type:  Trad, Aid, 9 pitches, 1000 feet Consensus:  5.10d C0 [details] FA:  Jeremy Frimer, Kelly Franz New Route:  Yes Season:  summer Submitted By:  Jeremy Frimer on Dec 30, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Milk Road

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Description 

After a new first pitch, the route follows the best three pitches of Milk Run before following cracks above and a final dyke finish. The best pitches are the 10b and 10d fingery corners (3 and 4) of Milk Run, with the second one being the crux. The climbing on the crux pitch is exceptionally sustained on excellent finger locks and as much gear as one wants to place. The final real pitch (8) is a memorable walk sideways along a featured dyke.

Location 

Tantalus Wall. From the base of the wall, walk right, uphill, for 50m to a wooded platform. A V-crack marks the start.

Descent: walk off via the Bellygood Ledge trail.

Protection 

rack fingers to #4 with triples or quadruples in the finger sizes for the blockbuster corner pitch. All but the corner pitches have at least one bolt. All anchors are bolted for rappel.

Photos of Milk Road Slideshow

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Pitch 1 (5.9 C0 or 5.11b) from the base of the cli...	classic 10b finger locking on pitch 3.	the final real pitch (8) follows an exposed dyke.....
BETA PHOTO: Milk Road topo	crux pitch (10d). Pretty much every move feels 10b...	pitch 5, Changing Corners, 10b. Steep up a left-fa...
pitch 8 (10c). Wild foot traverse