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Tantalus Wall
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Milk Road 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b C0

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 9 pitches, 1000'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b C0 [details]
FA: Jeremy Frimer, Kelly Franz
New Route: Yes
Season: summer
Page Views: 1,365
Submitted By: Jeremy Frimer on Dec 30, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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the final real pitch (8) follows an exposed dyke.....

Description 

After a new first pitch, the route follows the best three pitches of Milk Run before following cracks above and a final dyke finish. The best pitches are the 10b and 10d fingery corners (3 and 4) of Milk Run, with the second one being the crux. The climbing on the crux pitch is exceptionally sustained on excellent finger locks and as much gear as one wants to place. The final real pitch (8) is a memorable walk sideways along a featured dyke.


Location 

Tantalus Wall. From the base of the wall, walk right, uphill, for 50m to a wooded platform. A V-crack marks the start.

Descent: walk off via the Bellygood Ledge trail.


Protection 

rack fingers to #4 with triples or quadruples in the finger sizes for the blockbuster corner pitch. All but the corner pitches have at least one bolt. All anchors are bolted for rappel.



Photos of Milk Road Slideshow Add Photo
Milk Road topo
BETA PHOTO: Milk Road topo
classic 10b finger locking on pitch 3.
classic 10b finger locking on pitch 3.
pitch 5, Changing Corners, 10b. Steep up a left-facing corner, then some bolt-protected face moves, before this final right-facing corner
pitch 5, Changing Corners, 10b. Steep up a left-fa...
Milk Road
Milk Road
crux pitch (10d). Pretty much every move feels 10b without any rests for the first 20m. Still more challenging climbing above that... but with rests. Prepare for battle.
crux pitch (10d). Pretty much every move feels 10b...
Pitch 1 (5.9 C0 or 5.11b) from the base of the climb. Above the climber, the route follows the arch (pitch 2) then left again to a corner system out of view
Pitch 1 (5.9 C0 or 5.11b) from the base of the cli...
pitch 8 (10c). Wild foot traverse
pitch 8 (10c). Wild foot traverse
Comments on Milk Road Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nick Sullens
From: Yosemite/ Bend
Feb 9, 2011

The first four pitches are rad, the rest, meh. The dirt ramp pitch is ugly and lame. The dike is good fun

By Hans
From: North Vancouver, BC
Jul 30, 2012

I thought that the route was fantastic. The ramp is lame, but the other new pitches are a lot of fun. 4 stars IMO.