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Wish Bone S 

Milk Bone 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dave Ianuzzi (Nov 1999)
Page Views: 845
Submitted By: Hillary Davis on Mar 21, 2007  with updates from Jay Bone 1

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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That first clip was a bitch, and I'm 6'4"...

Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is basically a boulder problem (V0+, V1 or so) to huge jugs, but it's pretty keen. Power up to the stacked blocks that make up the key handlebar hold. There's still some friable crud under your feet on the overhanging part, so take caution.

Location 

On the left flank of the Bonetown "cave," before the new slab routes. Look for the stumpy remains of what was a prickly, crotch-nibbling bush at the base (a crag gardener has since cut it down.)

Protection 

Bolts (3 or 4, I don't recall)


Photos of Milk Bone Slideshow Add Photo
You can more or less see the sweet stacked block h...
You can more or less see the sweet stacked block h...
Deanna pulling through the left pocket.
Deanna pulling through the left pocket.
Milk Bone (10a)
Milk Bone (10a)
Deanna pulling through the left pocket.
Deanna pulling through the left pocket.
At stacked blocks!
At stacked blocks!
Mike after the crux.
Mike after the crux.
Starting into the good stuff!
Starting into the good stuff!
Bad scan of an older photo. Jay on Wishbone (not M...
Bad scan of an older photo. Jay on Wishbone (not M...
Wendel pulling through the crux of Milk Bone
Wendel pulling through the crux of Milk Bone
Deanna fell off the crux move.
Deanna fell off the crux move.
Wendel right past the third bolt, almost at the an...
Wendel right past the third bolt, almost at the an...
Deanna pulling through the left pocket.
Deanna pulling through the left pocket.
Bri snags the really nice jug on the left of the m...
Bri snags the really nice jug on the left of the m...
Mike after the crux
Mike after the crux
Deanna pulling through the left pocket.
Deanna pulling through the left pocket.
Reachy crux moves.
Reachy crux moves.

Comments on Milk Bone Add Comment
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By Hillary Davis
Mar 21, 2007

The stars are for the fun power moves and the handlebar itself.
By David Stephens
From: Spokane WA.
Apr 10, 2007

When I did the route last it was 11a and had 5 bolts and the rings on top.
By Hillary Davis
Apr 28, 2007

D'oh. You're right. It was late, and I get the names mixed up anyway. The short 10a is Milk Bone. Yes, the 5-bolt 11a is Wishbone. Fixed it.
By Nate Young
From: Phoenix
Dec 11, 2014

This route was a two move wonder, but still pretty fun. The hardest part was clipping the first draw without getting caught up in the rope for the move out left.
By Nate Young
From: Phoenix
3 days ago