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Milk Bone 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dave Ianuzzi (Nov 1999)
Page Views: 1,066
Submitted By: Hillary Davis on Mar 21, 2007  with updates from Jay Bone 1

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Mike after the crux.

Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is basically a boulder problem (V0+, V1 or so) to huge jugs, but it's pretty keen. Power up to the stacked blocks that make up the key handlebar hold. There's still some friable crud under your feet on the overhanging part, so take caution.

Location 

On the left flank of the Bonetown "cave," before the new slab routes. Look for the stumpy remains of what was a prickly, crotch-nibbling bush at the base (a crag gardener has since cut it down.)

Protection 

Bolts (3 or 4, I don't recall)


Photos of Milk Bone Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike after the crux
Mike after the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Deanna pulling through the left pocket.
Deanna pulling through the left pocket.
Rock Climbing Photo: Deanna pulling through the left pocket.
Deanna pulling through the left pocket.
Rock Climbing Photo: Deanna pulling through the left pocket.
Deanna pulling through the left pocket.
Rock Climbing Photo: Deanna fell off the crux move.
Deanna fell off the crux move.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bri snags the really nice jug on the left of the m...
Bri snags the really nice jug on the left of the m...
Rock Climbing Photo: You can more or less see the sweet stacked block h...
You can more or less see the sweet stacked block h...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wendel pulling through the crux of Milk Bone
Wendel pulling through the crux of Milk Bone
Rock Climbing Photo: Wendel right past the third bolt, almost at the an...
Wendel right past the third bolt, almost at the an...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting into the good stuff!
Starting into the good stuff!
Rock Climbing Photo: At stacked blocks!
At stacked blocks!
Rock Climbing Photo: Milk Bone (10a)
Milk Bone (10a)
Rock Climbing Photo: That first clip was a bitch, and I'm 6'4"...
That first clip was a bitch, and I'm 6'4"...
Rock Climbing Photo: Deanna pulling through the left pocket.
Deanna pulling through the left pocket.
Rock Climbing Photo: Reachy crux moves.
Reachy crux moves.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bad scan of an older photo. Jay on Wishbone (not M...
Bad scan of an older photo. Jay on Wishbone (not M...

Comments on Milk Bone Add Comment
Show which comments
By Hillary Davis
Mar 21, 2007

The stars are for the fun power moves and the handlebar itself.
By David Stephens
From: Spokane WA.
Apr 10, 2007

When I did the route last it was 11a and had 5 bolts and the rings on top.
By Hillary Davis
Apr 28, 2007

D'oh. You're right. It was late, and I get the names mixed up anyway. The short 10a is Milk Bone. Yes, the 5-bolt 11a is Wishbone. Fixed it.
By Nate Young
From: Phoenix
Dec 11, 2014

This route was a two move wonder, but still pretty fun. The hardest part was clipping the first draw without getting caught up in the rope for the move out left.
By Nate Young
From: Phoenix
Dec 15, 2014


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