|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]|
|FA:||Gary Slate, '80s|
|Submitted By:||Greg Barnes on Dec 14, 2006|
|Comments on Miles From Nowhere||Add Comment|
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From: Bishop, CA
Aug 27, 2015
Did this climb today. It is like 5.10a PG13, in our opinion.
We did not encounter ANY issues with rope drag on the first bolt. There are not enough bolts to have rope drag of any kind!
A fall above the 3rd bolt would be long but clean due to the steep nature of the route.
I could not find the gear placement Greg Barnes talks about, but 20' up from the last bolt one can sling a bomber horn with a dyneema sling before climbing the last section to the anchors.
Really fun climbing with great sequences! An awkward crux, run-out 5.8, and a little bat guano are the only deterrents to an otherwise enjoyable romp.
A badass ground-up FA!