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Milanoma 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: T1, JB, BKristofitz
Page Views: 2,040
Submitted By: WSnyder on Feb 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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JB at tech crux of Milanoma. Photo by Andrew Korny...

Description 

4th route from the right. Starts with fairly large holds to a big move off a crimp to a big hold. Then a sidepull to more big holds. Shake out the best you can and then head into the technical crux. Do a few more moves and go for the redpoint crux. Follow the good holds to the anchor.

Protection 

Bolts, Chains


Photos of Milanoma Slideshow Add Photo
Andrew Kornylak on Milanoma.  Rope is on Blood Meridian.
Andrew Kornylak on Milanoma. Rope is on Blood Mer...
Todd and me, early 2001.
Todd and me, early 2001.

Comments on Milanoma Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 3, 2013
By GDS
Jul 14, 2006
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Great redpoint candidate for the 11d - 12a/b climber as the climbing is powerful with decent opportunities for rest before heading into cruxes. Stays in shade late into spring even when the Sunnyside is baking.
By jbak
Dec 15, 2006
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

This climb has one of the coolest rests I've ever seen just before the final crux. See if you can find it.

About as action packed as a 35 foot route can be.

Starts just left of Holeo and right of Blood Meridian.
By Tommy Wilson
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 7, 2008
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

This is a super rad sport route. Super fun cruxes, decent rests, and cool movement throughout. That said, is it really only 35 feet? My weaksauce-endurance-sense says its a bit more (50?). At any rate, thanks to the people responsible for cleaning this entire wall. Stellar stellar climbing.
By jbak
Feb 7, 2008
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Tommy, thanks for the kind words. Todd (McG...AKA T-1) spent hours cleaning that thing. It was a pile. He intended for me to do the FA but I got more interested in the route just left of it.

I believe if you actually measured it you would find 35 feet is pretty close. Most people over-estimate the height of routes. But 35 of near perfection is a lot. It's all meat with no fat, kind of like Spinal Twist at the Dry. Maybe it's 40 feet if you count the little zig-zag near the end.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 22, 2009

All my rests were at the end of the rope and I still couldn't do the move in the middle. Love the finishing moves. Would like to Redpoint this climb.
By jbak
Dec 22, 2009
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Amazing how that hold is exactly where someone Todd's height could reach it, eh ?
By iancevans
Apr 25, 2010
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Fantastic. The crux deadpoint is long for me, so I catch the crimp open-handed then have to curl it up into a crimp... super cool! The key for me (and maybe for you, too, Eric) is to use a higher, less obvious left foot and to bump off a poor intermediate.

I couldn't find the crazy secret rest before the upper crux (even though Pete described it to me) so I climbed it without resting.... it's only 35 feet, so why screw up your flow?!

Three cheers for aggressive "cleaning"!
By JesseJ
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 6, 2011

What a wonderful route! It may not be very long, but it's burly the whole way through! Did all the moves, I'll be back to try and string this thing together
By jbak
Feb 6, 2011
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Jesse... glad you liked it. Looks like you got on SOLAR too.

Next time you are out there, try this old Scott Ayers trick...stand under one of the routes (say MILANOMA or BLOOD), turn your BACK to the wall, and look up over your head at the anchor. Gives you a great feel for how steep the route really is.
By Todd McGregor
Mar 23, 2013

Millanoma was my greatest engineering feat ever. Couldn't have fabricated a better route at the gym. For those looking to relieve themselves of excess saliva, I now drive a pink Bentley.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 3, 2013

By "fabricate" what do you mean, Todd? Do you mean chiseling and using glue? Or are you referencing setting the route on TR and rap bolting?

If it's the latter I am sure nobody will spit on your car. The former could cause problems for us ... I doubt land managers would be psyched to read about climbers doing this (even on chossy rock) and then boasting about it.

Could you clarify what you are talking about?