Milagro Beanfield War 5.11+
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | Bob D. & Mike Howard |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Mike Howard on Jul 2, 2007 |
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Description Amazing climbing up to and over a six foot overhang. Some loose holds may persist. The climbing above the overhang is excellent. Stick clip the first bolt and then do hard moves up the thin seam. The crux is moving right from the layback to below the roof. Maybe the longest and therefore one of the best route at the crag.
Location The route lies down and right of Nirvana Blues. You can't miss it.
Protection Ten clips will get you to a two bolt anchor.
Nice laybacking moves just before swinging right a...
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| Comments on Milagro Beanfield War |
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By Mike Howard Administrator Jul 2, 2007 rating: 5.11+
| Roberto, Es un buen nombre. Gracias, Amarante Cordova |
By Jason Halladay Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Feb 7, 2009 rating: 5.11c
| Super fun route but the scary loose rock section just below the roof detracts a bit. Thanks to George it is now a bit cleaner in there. |
By Mick S From: Sandia Park, NM Oct 11, 2010
| This route still needs more cleaning below the roof. Also, the protruding flake that you layaway on to get to the loose rock below the roof is hollow and moves a bit, beware. Hard start to a hard clip, didn't have a stick clip, but I would recommend one. |
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