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Milagro Beanfield War 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bob D. & Mike Howard
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 830
Submitted By: Mike Howard on Jul 2, 2007

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Nice laybacking moves just before swinging right a...

Description 

Amazing climbing up to and over a six foot overhang. Some loose holds may persist. The climbing above the overhang is excellent. Stick clip the first bolt and then do hard moves up the thin seam. The crux is moving right from the layback to below the roof.

Maybe the longest and therefore one of the best route at the crag.


Location 

The route lies down and right of Nirvana Blues. You can't miss it.


Protection 

Ten clips will get you to a two bolt anchor.



Photos of Milagro Beanfield War Slideshow Add Photo
Poorly merged photos of Milagro Beanfield War and top of Sterile Cuckoo
BETA PHOTO: Poorly merged photos of Milagro Beanfield War and ...
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By Mike Howard
Administrator
Jul 2, 2007
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Roberto,
Es un buen nombre.
Gracias,
Amarante Cordova

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Feb 7, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Super fun route but the scary loose rock section just below the roof detracts a bit. Thanks to George it is now a bit cleaner in there.

By Mick S
From: Sandia Park, NM
Oct 11, 2010

This route still needs more cleaning below the roof. Also, the protruding flake that you layaway on to get to the loose rock below the roof is hollow and moves a bit, beware. Hard start to a hard clip, didn't have a stick clip, but I would recommend one.