One of the better routes at it's grade, Miki's Six busts up a short, smooth slab and joins a long, left leaning hand/fist crack.
Start on the far south side of the buttress next to a tree for the most casual way to gain the crack, or begin directly below the crack on a thinner, more trickier, full-value face. Either way, the crack is the real reason you're there.
Climb a little over fifteen feet to get to the crack, plug a piece and let the fun begin. Follow the slowly widening break up and left towards a huge hanging flake. Using jams and face holds climb the relaxed route up to a troublesome area around the 3/4's mark. Work you way through this and finish wide at the large, crisp, flake.
This route sits on the far right, west side face of The Bumblie Wall. Its the most obvious, most significant crack on the wall. Miki's Six is the first route you come too when arriving from the Bath Rock or Flaming Rock parking. It sits two climbs right of Too Much Fun.
Depeding on your comfort level, the gear wil be highly varied. A single rack from 3/4" to 5" sums up the range in sizing. Bring a single set, bring a double set, add some stoppers and/or hexes.... best to just eye it up from the ground. Stop at a thick set of slings wrapped around a horn.
|By Michael Buchanan|
Jul 22, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Great beginner lead. Start behind the tree and traverse left into crack. Start can be protected be slinging a tree (if you want). Pull the rope from climbers left to avoid getting you rope stuck in the crack. No chain anchors (new bingham guide says there are), but can sling the flake at the top. Fun route. Perfect first lead.
|By Mark Roth|
Oct 19, 2012
5.5 at most. If you don't use the tree, the log, or a shoulder stand to get off the ground it's more like hard 5.11.