Mike's Short Route 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | Ben Rosenberg and Mike Bannister |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | ben rosenberg on Apr 4, 2006 |
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Getting into the crux.
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Open to climbing MORE INFO >>>
Per Rik Henrikson, Boulder County Sherriff: please note, Parks and Open Space WAS determined that this crag WAS subject to indefinite closure; however, a site visit with a state biologist has confirmed this site is very close to a closed area, but this crag is OPEN TO CLIMBING.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Climb up the slab to the obvious left-facing dihedral. A wide crack splits the feature; climb this to the top.
Location This is the offwidth left of the route Full Throttle. Walk off to descend.
Protection I got a couple of bad stoppers. Future parties should be able to protect with their biggest cams and/or Big Bros.
| Comments on Mike's Short Route |
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 6, 2006
rating: 5.10
| This felt harder than 5.9, but only for 2 meters. Then again, we did it in sub-freezing temperatures at sunrise. I suspect it might be easier for smaller people, and Mike is a Hobbit, so I can see where he is coming from....
Climb the easy slab with a hand crack in the corner, put in overhead gear (larger) then pull into a lieback and some grunting for a body length. A #5 Camalot is at the knees for a crux exit, but there is some suspect rock around, so be attentive to place it carefully. I think this would be a very hard and potentially dangerous for a 5.9 leader.
To belay, walk back 5m from the top and sling a few big rocks.
If only the climb were taller than 25', it would get more stars and respect.
Post script edit:
Mike has admitted that the assigned grade was a sandbag and was assigned because this is the 'traditional offwidth sandbag grade.' |
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