Migration 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Tristan Higbee, Christian Burrell |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Tristan Higbee on Jul 22, 2008 |
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Description This route climbs the corner on the right side of the upper slab on the right side of the Wild.
I would recommend that only experienced trad leaders lead this route. It's not hard and the protection is pretty good, but still, you've got to have confidence in placing gear in limestone. We don't like to bolt cracks, that's why we left it as a trad route. If you don't have trad gear, just toprope the thing, but don't bolt the crack.
Location The obvious corner to the right of Welcome to the Jungle. There is one bolt in the middle of the route where the crack doesn't take any gear.
Protection A couple slings (I slung the detached pillar with a shoulder-length sling), medium cams (I used red and gold Camalots), a quickdraw for the one bolt in the middle of the route. Maybe some medium-large nuts. Chains on top.
You can toprope this route by first climbing either Welcome to the Jungle or Stampede and just reaching over to the chains of this route. The anchors are a few feet apart.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jul 23, 2008
| Lots of little crozlies in the crack (before the bolt, gets cleaner after) which made me wonder if cams would hold a fall. The bolt is in the exact right place. The climbing is pretty mellow though so don't panic. The only down side I really found was that it shares many of the same holds as "Welcome to the Jungle." |
By Christopher Sorensen
From: Provo, UT
May 30, 2009
rating: 5.7+
| Maybe I'm weird, but I actually liked this climb a lot, even more than the other two maybe. I don't know why. I stuck as far right as possible without using the ledge and it is a really fun climb. |
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