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Mighty Thor 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Murray Judge and Gugi Rylegis, 1979
Page Views: 2,781
Submitted By: William Prehm on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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Mighty Thor before the crux

Seasonal Closures - some are lifted MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is located on the east side of South Gateway Rock on the Drug Wall. The fastest way to get there is to park at the main parking area on the north side of the loop. Mighty Thor will be on the left side of the cement path just before you get to the Twin Spires formation. The route follows the seam to the left of the blocky roofs that make up Crescent Corner.

The climb follows the seam for a ways then moves to the face with a reaching crux move.

Protection 

10 bolts to a cable anchor.


Photos of Mighty Thor Slideshow Add Photo
Mighty Thor, climber's perspective.  Photo: Dancesatmoonrise.
Mighty Thor, climber's perspective. Photo: Dances...
This is a picture taken of my friend Rob working hard to figure out the Crux on Mighty Thor.
This is a picture taken of my friend Rob working h...
Lee starting the crux.
Lee starting the crux.
Lee Rittenmeyer working the awkward lower section of Mighty Thor.
Lee Rittenmeyer working the awkward lower section ...
CJC on Mighty Thor, circa 1997. <br /> <br />Pic by my mom.
CJC on Mighty Thor, circa 1997.

Pic by my mom.

Comments on Mighty Thor Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 30, 2010
By Barrett Cooper
Nov 26, 2001

As I remember it the first couple bolts are a lot of fun and require a good bit of balance as you smear up the seam. The climb gets its rating fromt he crux moves at the white headwall above the seam. It it easier the taller you are but there are good spots to rest in before and after the crux that helped me a lot. From the bolt above the crux traverse up and left to get to the anchors. The traverse presents a minor penduluming danger but thankfully has fairly good footing to the ledge with the anchors.
By Sean O'Dell
Apr 26, 2002

Some key beta for this one: First of all, Mighty Thor takes every inch of a 60m rope to TR. 2 - For some reason, I seem to remember that you need 14 quicks/slings to lead it, although I've only TR'ed it, so I'm not sure. 3 - If you're 8' tall, you should be all over this route. That crux move is an off-balance, reachy son of a...
By Darin Lang
Jun 2, 2002

It might be as much as 14 QDs. Half the fun of this great route is dealing with rope drag and avoiding Z-clips through and above the crux section. Not that I minded the extra pro ...
By Jon Cannon
Jun 5, 2002
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I think I counted you using thirteen draws on this route, Darin. It definitely behooves the leader to NOT clean the last three draws or so of this route, as a fall at the crux implicates a pretty good-sized pendulum (translation: the second would have a devil of a time getting back on route).

The crux move is in the middle of a fantastic sequence, when the main headwall begins to loom menacingly over the intrepid climber. You're gonna explore the limits of Stealth rubber on this one!
By Adam Hicks`
Jul 17, 2003

Explore them I did as I took a pretty major whipper whilst attempting to clip the second bolt. It actually wasn't the stealth, however, instead my flight having its beginnings in the left hand that popped off of a pinch. A bad fall it was, too, for as I put my hand out in front of me the rope found itself wedged between it and the rock and glided along my palm giving me an unforgetable burn. Ouch! This route is amazing and tricky. I also love that old Garden drilled angle for pro thing. You'd think people would wise up and stop climbing in the Garden, eh? Not bloody likely!
By Terrence Johnson
Aug 7, 2003

The scariest part about this climb is the heinous american triangle for the anchors. I say that whoever wants to climb it cut off the frayed cable and bring a couple pieces of webbing with them and rig the anchors correctly. The frayed cable is destroying the piece of webbing on there and would destroy any other webbing someone might put on it too.
By Chris R
Sep 5, 2003

Cable anchors are in bad shape; one of the cable threads has snapped, and the remaining two or three aren't far behind. Also, the cable is placed in the "triangle of death" fashion. I left a short blue 1" sling equalized through 2 of the 3 pins, that being all I had at the time. Be cafeful....
By Dan Russell
Sep 6, 2003

Most of those cable anchors seem to be placed as triangles.
By Larry Shaw
May 28, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Noticed about 4 of the pins were bent. I'm 6'2 and had enough wingspan to reach the bucket semi gracefully. I feel sorry for shorter climbers on this one. The cable anchor has been backed up by webbing and is safe.
By Stewart M. Green
Jun 8, 2005

Mighty Thor has new anchors! Stewart Green and Brian Shelton replaced the old pitons (including some stamped 1952) with three 5-inch-long stainless steel sleeve bolts with stainless steel descending rings. Many thanks to Climbing Magazine and Petzl for donating the new anchors. The old ones were definitely a hazard with a frayed cable and brittle webbing.
By Darin Lang
Jun 9, 2005

Thanks, guys! That frayed cable/random sling/old piton set up *may* have been safe, but it never looked it.
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Mar 29, 2008

There's a bail quickdraw up on this route as of today. FYI.
By Joe Mokrycki
From: Lincoln, Nebraska
Apr 14, 2008

I hate to say it but I busted a hold off the start of Mighty Thor. Somewhere around the 25 ft mark there is now a gaping flat spot where a beautiful blocky chunk used to be. It was a great hold for your left hand, but when I got my foot up on it it busted, depositing me into the arms of my belayer.
By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Aug 5, 2008

If you plan to send bring 14 + draws and maybe a #3 TCU for the start. Don't forget your other rope, well protected crux, awesome.
By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Oct 2, 2008

This is a fun and well-protected route (after reaching the first pin of course). If you don't have 14 draws, there are several spots where you can securely back-clean your last clip.
By Taylor Tolle
From: Colorado
Mar 5, 2009

Loved the route, I took my very first lead fall here. Once you pass the crux you have a beautiful, sidewalk-sized ledge to roll on to but with fiew handholds to get there.... The bomer took me 25-30 feet past the crux with a single four letter word echoing down to the Sunday morning tourists "I apologize". I do not recomend top roping Thor, the rope pulls you off to the right and away from the holds.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
May 12, 2009

Cool climb! Harder for shorter people for sure. I'm 5'8" and it involved some trickery to get to the jug, while my partner who was a little above 6' cruised it. Forget the cams. there are plenty of bolts. Too many perhaps.
By Dan Petty
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 15, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Top-roping can be done easily by redirecting the rope through a quickdraw clipped to a fixed pin above the crux move.
By EricJochens
From: Co Springs, CO
Aug 30, 2010

Crux move looks worse than it is. I slipped while hanging off my right hand on the ledge jug only to realize that if you move your hand 6 inches right it is bomber. Safe clean fall if you miss it.