One of the better trad routes in Logan Canyon. Climb up past 2 bolts(completely unnecessary and I feel poorly placed. Is this a trad route or what?) directly up the face or use the fist crack to the left(OK, but dirty) or climb a quite splitter hand crack(quite good) around the right side up through a offwidth flake that all lead to the same place, a fat ledge(20 feet). Climb the flaky crack with protection that takes a little fidgeting to get it to sit right, but excellent, then up past another unnecessary bolt(good pro available) to the chains.
At the far west end of the crag(past limestone cowboy) on its own wall separate from the rest of the routes. Start below the bolted face or climb up around the right to get to the recommended splitter crack to the left of a dihedral.
3 bolts(optional) plus some trad gear. A single set of cams is fine with a #4 being useful.
|By Brian Hestetune|
From: Logan, UT
Apr 5, 2012
I have yet to try the crack to the left, but the hand crack to the right of the face is great. I would definitely recommend this over the bolted face.
Mar 29, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lower face is fun, but always seems a bit tricky to me. I personally like to stick clip the bottom bolt (bad experience where I almost tumbled backward off the first little ledge). The crack is pretty much amazing.