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The Left Wall
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What are you on? T,S 

Midwestern Gangster 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: D.Bloom/ C.Cox
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 411
Submitted By: Floater on Dec 7, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

A new cleaner version of an old chossy rte called nitrogenous waste,

Location 

left of most excellent, at the sword area

Protection 

std waterfall rack with xtra small tcu's, chain anchor


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By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 9, 2010

Capone? Gotti? Obama? CCox! Way to get after it you guys. I always love spending time with good company!
By michael broad
From: Moab, Utah
Dec 9, 2012

If you go left at the roof it's midwestern gangster, right is nitrogenous waste. I thought both ways were worth doing. Going right was slightly harder climbing (a tips crack) with more straight forward gear.
By Hugo Almanza
From: Phoenix,AZ
Aug 4, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

The upper half of the route is awesome movement. The beginning section has some questionable rock , slightly hollow. Great route!

FYI, A creative hex placement protects the starting moves.