Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
*The Left Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A White Bread World T 
Blade Runner T 
Bloomin' Union T 
Bus Stop to Nowhere T 
Butternuts T 
Central Scrutinizer  T 
Certified Freak T 
Dihedral of Dagmar T 
Dirty Deed T 
Earth Diver T 
Earth Puller S 
Flashflood T 
Follow your Doubt T 
Fool's Progress T 
Giardia Crack T 
Guacamole T 
I'm On My Bike T 
Insomnia T 
Inz and Outz S 
Just Another G T 
Mental Health T 
Midwestern Gangster T 
More Anus Than Heinous T 
Morticia T 
Most Excellent T 
Nervous Breakdown T 
Ninja Warrior T 
Noggin 'Nocker T 
Original Sin T 
Outrageous T 
Phlegm Of Fury T 
Pyrrhic Victory T,S 
Righteous Dump T 
Righteous Pump T 
Rising Sun T 
Slaughterfall T 
Smoke Big Doobs, Suck Big Boobs T 
Spite and Malice T 
Suzie and Ishmael Do the Nasty T,S 
Sword, The T 
Terminator T 
Thick and Thin T 
Tombstone T 
Turkish Tickling T 
Tyrant, The T 
Uncle Fister T 
Vertebrae T 
What are you on? T,S 

Midwestern Gangster 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: D.Bloom/ C.Cox
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 551
Submitted By: Floater on Dec 7, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


A new cleaner version of an old chossy rte called nitrogenous waste,


left of most excellent, at the sword area


std waterfall rack with xtra small tcu's, chain anchor

Comments on Midwestern Gangster Add Comment
Show which comments
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 9, 2010

Capone? Gotti? Obama? CCox! Way to get after it you guys. I always love spending time with good company!
By Mike broad
From: Moab, Utah
Dec 9, 2012

If you go left at the roof it's midwestern gangster, right is nitrogenous waste. I thought both ways were worth doing. Going right was slightly harder climbing (a tips crack) with more straight forward gear.
By Hugo Almanza
From: Phoenix,AZ
Aug 4, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

The upper half of the route is awesome movement. The beginning section has some questionable rock , slightly hollow. Great route!

FYI, A creative hex placement protects the starting moves.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!